T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | |
S********t
发帖数: 18987 | |
s****t
发帖数: 746 | |
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 4 Sounds like this is the kind of thing that could have happened to any of us.
We did run out quite a bit on Solar Slab, and all of us were taking the
risk of 50+ ft falls all the time while leading.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: on Solar slab.
: http://www.ktnv.com/Global/story.asp?S=13568973
: http://lvmpdsar.blogspot.com/
: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/injuries_and_accidents/accident_in_red_rock
: s_oak_creek_111510/106971160
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 5 no
I just got this message today.
【在 s****t 的大作中提到】
: OMG!
: Were you involved in the rescue?
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 6 We were climbing at different section the same day. Saw two helicopters
landed and huge traffic line built up. Only learned about the accident later
the night on local TV news. |
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 7 Looks like that the helicopter we saw was for the injured hiker, as for its
landing location.
As for the broken handhold, the climbing day was warm & sunny, in perfect
condition, but the previous day was raining hard. The sandstone in Red Rocks
needs at least 24 hours to dry out back to good condition. I fear that this
had something to do with the accident. The rock quality in Red Rocks is not that
good. Many times when lowering down or rappelling, foot stepping on rock easily
breaks off rock pieces. Luckly we did not encounter any brocken handhold, but can feel that there are quite few close calls. |
T********d
发帖数: 621 | 8 It looks that she passed away....
I was hoping that she would recover from the fall and injure. They did say
that she was unconscious but regained conscious right before the rescue team
reached her.
http://www.examiner.com/climbing-in-national/climber-falls-while-climbing-solar-slab-at-red-rock-canyon
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: on Solar slab.
: http://www.ktnv.com/Global/story.asp?S=13568973
: http://lvmpdsar.blogspot.com/
: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/injuries_and_accidents/accident_in_red_rock
: s_oak_creek_111510/106971160
|
k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 9 yeah lucid interval, from a very bad brain injury
epidural hematoma, it seems
a brain artery got rupture
i wonder if self-rescue or taking some self-rescue class would help to
reduce this kind of mistake and etc. our campus offers this type of class.
team
【在 T********d 的大作中提到】
: It looks that she passed away....
: I was hoping that she would recover from the fall and injure. They did say
: that she was unconscious but regained conscious right before the rescue team
: reached her.
: http://www.examiner.com/climbing-in-national/climber-falls-while-climbing-solar-slab-at-red-rock-canyon
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 10 I would say self-rescue is a preferred skill in mountain climbing, but not r
eally helpful in this particular case...
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: yeah lucid interval, from a very bad brain injury
: epidural hematoma, it seems
: a brain artery got rupture
: i wonder if self-rescue or taking some self-rescue class would help to
: reduce this kind of mistake and etc. our campus offers this type of class.
:
: team
|
|
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 11 I don't see any mistake here from all the reports.
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: yeah lucid interval, from a very bad brain injury
: epidural hematoma, it seems
: a brain artery got rupture
: i wonder if self-rescue or taking some self-rescue class would help to
: reduce this kind of mistake and etc. our campus offers this type of class.
:
: team
|
c*******k
发帖数: 2427 | 12 Bless her family
team
【在 T********d 的大作中提到】
: It looks that she passed away....
: I was hoping that she would recover from the fall and injure. They did say
: that she was unconscious but regained conscious right before the rescue team
: reached her.
: http://www.examiner.com/climbing-in-national/climber-falls-while-climbing-solar-slab-at-red-rock-canyon
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 13 Self rescue deals with the situation after shit happens, but it won't
prevent shit from happening ;-)
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: yeah lucid interval, from a very bad brain injury
: epidural hematoma, it seems
: a brain artery got rupture
: i wonder if self-rescue or taking some self-rescue class would help to
: reduce this kind of mistake and etc. our campus offers this type of class.
:
: team
|
m******e
发帖数: 4232 | 14 我们上周末攀的时候也是听到很恐怖的落下来的叫声，后来发现就是先在我们
旁边爬的帅哥，听说是快到顶的时候落下很远，好在是Sport还算好，如果Trad
那样的落估计就危险了。之后当天他就没再去爬别的线路了，我要落那么一下，
心理也会非常不舒服。 |
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 15 lead的时候落的？
【在 m******e 的大作中提到】
: 我们上周末攀的时候也是听到很恐怖的落下来的叫声，后来发现就是先在我们
: 旁边爬的帅哥，听说是快到顶的时候落下很远，好在是Sport还算好，如果Trad
: 那样的落估计就危险了。之后当天他就没再去爬别的线路了，我要落那么一下，
: 心理也会非常不舒服。
|
m******e
发帖数: 4232 | 16 当然啦，TR是不可能落很远的，也不太可能大叫的，特例除外。
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: lead的时候落的？
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 17 有点糊涂了，你是说在gym里？
【在 m******e 的大作中提到】
: 当然啦，TR是不可能落很远的，也不太可能大叫的，特例除外。
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 18 够runout的话，sport也白搭
她的gear都没fail，就是runout太远，掉下来就悲剧了
我看了这个事故之后就梦见在爬石头一路许多掰一掰踩一踩就掉的点，导致我一个
pitch爬了无穷久
【在 m******e 的大作中提到】
: 我们上周末攀的时候也是听到很恐怖的落下来的叫声，后来发现就是先在我们
: 旁边爬的帅哥，听说是快到顶的时候落下很远，好在是Sport还算好，如果Trad
: 那样的落估计就危险了。之后当天他就没再去爬别的线路了，我要落那么一下，
: 心理也会非常不舒服。
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 19 看到你的帖子，我才去看新闻。
居然是硬生生runout了，为啥留那么多slack？
说句不好听，有点感觉像是，躺着也中枪，
climbing 危险真大。
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 够runout的话，sport也白搭
: 她的gear都没fail，就是runout太远，掉下来就悲剧了
: 我看了这个事故之后就梦见在爬石头一路许多掰一掰踩一踩就掉的点，导致我一个
: pitch爬了无穷久
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 20 Learn from me. Quit climbing. |
|
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 21 You have to run it out a lot on Solar Slab. Since Red Rocks has a gate, you
basically have to do a 11-pitch climb, rappel down, plus the 1hr approach 12
hour car-to car in total.
It was quite a rush every time I was on Solar Slab. I run out 20+ ft (which
translates to 50 ft fall with rope drag) pretty much on every pro. You just
have to take the chance on this climb.
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 看到你的帖子，我才去看新闻。
: 居然是硬生生runout了，为啥留那么多slack？
: 说句不好听，有点感觉像是，躺着也中枪，
: climbing 危险真大。
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 22 solar slab有好几个pitch你想不runout都不行，没好地方放pro。这种线要么就不要爬
，要么就很confident很calm的快速通过runout区。
you
12
which
just
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: You have to run it out a lot on Solar Slab. Since Red Rocks has a gate, you
: basically have to do a 11-pitch climb, rappel down, plus the 1hr approach 12
: hour car-to car in total.
: It was quite a rush every time I was on Solar Slab. I run out 20+ ft (which
: translates to 50 ft fall with rope drag) pretty much on every pro. You just
: have to take the chance on this climb.
|
k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 23 练endurance吧。一定要练好endurance啊。想想人家dean potter。。人没绳子都掉不
下来。。
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: solar slab有好几个pitch你想不runout都不行，没好地方放pro。这种线要么就不要爬
: ，要么就很confident很calm的快速通过runout区。
:
: you
: 12
: which
: just
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 24 the accident has nothing to do with endurance
it's more like to stay cautious and alert during climbing, always check the
quality of the holds before putting all your weight on them, especially when
it's runout & the rock is not very solid. So that when one hold broken, you
can still hold yourself. I have only climbed at red rocks >2 weeks, and I
already had broken holds a few times (fortunately mostly on TR).
And of coz, try to avoid runout if possible, even if it's an easy climb. Too
much runout means you are free solo, which is not good for an ordinary
person like me.
I told a close friend about the accident and she asked me to never climb
again....
【在 k**e 的大作中提到】
: 练endurance吧。一定要练好endurance啊。想想人家dean potter。。人没绳子都掉不
: 下来。。
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 25 Yeah, if the accident is what was reported, mandatory run out plus broken
hold, it has pretty much nothing to do with the climber.
Checking every holds, and never run out minimize risks, but it also means
you have to climb WELL below your limit, and never step out of G rating. But
that also takes a good deal of fun out of climbing, doesn't it.
Finding the right balance is hard.
the
when
you
Too
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: the accident has nothing to do with endurance
: it's more like to stay cautious and alert during climbing, always check the
: quality of the holds before putting all your weight on them, especially when
: it's runout & the rock is not very solid. So that when one hold broken, you
: can still hold yourself. I have only climbed at red rocks >2 weeks, and I
: already had broken holds a few times (fortunately mostly on TR).
: And of coz, try to avoid runout if possible, even if it's an easy climb. Too
: much runout means you are free solo, which is not good for an ordinary
: person like me.
: I told a close friend about the accident and she asked me to never climb
|
m******e
发帖数: 4232 | 26 不是的，是室外。
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 有点糊涂了，你是说在gym里？
|
m******e
发帖数: 4232 | 27 哦，还没有仔细去看原因，我自己是会很不舒服的，设置Gear很多，当然很多
线路就没法爬了。
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 够runout的话，sport也白搭
: 她的gear都没fail，就是runout太远，掉下来就悲剧了
: 我看了这个事故之后就梦见在爬石头一路许多掰一掰踩一踩就掉的点，导致我一个
: pitch爬了无穷久
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 28 Last season, I took 2 falls because of broken holds. Once TR and once on
lead. The one on TR was an easy 5.6 route and that is the first time I have
taken a fall on a 5.6. Second time was a 5.8 sport. I was nearing the
anchors, about 6-8 feet above the last bolt. It was a bit scary but
fotunately the terrain was vertical enough that I didn't hit anything.
I have broken a hold at Red Rocks, I think it was on the last pitch of Going
Nuts. Fortunately it was very easy terrain and I didn't fall even I was on
lead. In general, the rock quality of many routes at red rocks is not ideal,
and many routes are runout. The runout on tunnel vision is very scary too.
On pitch 3 you clip a bolt and then for the next 15 feet, you can only place
a sketchy yellow and a blue metolius, which are more of psychological pros,
then for the next 20 feet or so, there is absolutely no crack to protect. I
remember when I finally was able to put in a #4, I took a long long
exhalation. Then the tunnel pitch is a runout too, and if you fall, you are
almost certain to deck.
the
when
you
Too
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: the accident has nothing to do with endurance
: it's more like to stay cautious and alert during climbing, always check the
: quality of the holds before putting all your weight on them, especially when
: it's runout & the rock is not very solid. So that when one hold broken, you
: can still hold yourself. I have only climbed at red rocks >2 weeks, and I
: already had broken holds a few times (fortunately mostly on TR).
: And of coz, try to avoid runout if possible, even if it's an easy climb. Too
: much runout means you are free solo, which is not good for an ordinary
: person like me.
: I told a close friend about the accident and she asked me to never climb
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 I don't know for sure, but reading what was reported, I suspected she wasn't
wearing a helmet, which could have saved her life. In any case, I don't
blame her for not wearing a helmet. It is a personal choice and
unfortunately she made a wrong one. It's a very sad tragedy.
But
【在 S********g 的大作中提到】
: Yeah, if the accident is what was reported, mandatory run out plus broken
: hold, it has pretty much nothing to do with the climber.
: Checking every holds, and never run out minimize risks, but it also means
: you have to climb WELL below your limit, and never step out of G rating. But
: that also takes a good deal of fun out of climbing, doesn't it.
: Finding the right balance is hard.
:
: the
: when
: you
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 30 明白了，是不是啥都没有的是trad，有bolt的是sport？
【在 m******e 的大作中提到】
: 不是的，是室外。
|
|
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c*******k
发帖数: 2427 | 31 嗯，我是不戴不爬，虽然总共次数很少很少，难度很低很低。
觉得BD的那个我戴起来好象不是很合适，不过也没戴过其他的，不好比较。
't
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I don't know for sure, but reading what was reported, I suspected she wasn't
: wearing a helmet, which could have saved her life. In any case, I don't
: blame her for not wearing a helmet. It is a personal choice and
: unfortunately she made a wrong one. It's a very sad tragedy.
:
: But
|
k**e
发帖数: 2728 | 32 What i heard is that for sport climbing, yes it usually has bolt, but also
it's sport climbing because it is way more difficult.
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 明白了，是不是啥都没有的是trad，有bolt的是sport？
|
k**e
发帖数: 2728 | |
m******e
发帖数: 4232 | 34 嗯，问的很通俗哈，我的认为是Sport就是室外设计好的路线，上面有Bolts的
都算，你不用去想哪里需要设置保护点。而Trad的线路是自己设置保护点的，
通常是一些石缝，你需要把自己带的保护装置卡进去，所以找到安全的设置点
和放得是否安全是很重要的技术。
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 明白了，是不是啥都没有的是trad，有bolt的是sport？
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 35 基本就是这么回事
最大的区别就在于保护的方式
sport climb的保护就是bolt，这个是80年代在美国发展起来的，现在已经慢慢成为主
流了
【在 m******e 的大作中提到】
: 嗯，问的很通俗哈，我的认为是Sport就是室外设计好的路线，上面有Bolts的
: 都算，你不用去想哪里需要设置保护点。而Trad的线路是自己设置保护点的，
: 通常是一些石缝，你需要把自己带的保护装置卡进去，所以找到安全的设置点
: 和放得是否安全是很重要的技术。
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 36 I would say always wear a helmet when climbing (leading and following).
Belaying or hanging around in friendly terrain, then it is your personal
choice.
't
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I don't know for sure, but reading what was reported, I suspected she wasn't
: wearing a helmet, which could have saved her life. In any case, I don't
: blame her for not wearing a helmet. It is a personal choice and
: unfortunately she made a wrong one. It's a very sad tragedy.
:
: But
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 37 well, it's really hard to draw the line. I can also argue (and I personally
do) that you should wear a helmet when belaying especially when loose rocks
can be involved. I have followed sport routes without helmet although not
often. And people have very different definitions of friendly terrain just
because of different levels of climbing skills and risk tolerance.
climbing is a inherently dangerous sport and we all trade off risks vs fun.
as long as you know what you are doing and are aware of risks you are taking
, I'd say everything is a personal choice, including things like not having
a bomb proof anchor and free soloing 5.11 which seem insane and reckless in
others' eyes. I respect people who take a much higher risk than I do, but I
don't climb with them.
【在 S********g 的大作中提到】
: I would say always wear a helmet when climbing (leading and following).
: Belaying or hanging around in friendly terrain, then it is your personal
: choice.
:
: 't
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 38 I am totally with you, actually.
Just in the rare chances that I need to look after total beginners, I have
been asking them to put on helmet when climbing, and make their own judgment
when belaying or standing around.
That's just where I draw the line personally, not necessarily others', and
not necessarily ideal.
personally
rocks
.
taking
having
in
I
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: well, it's really hard to draw the line. I can also argue (and I personally
: do) that you should wear a helmet when belaying especially when loose rocks
: can be involved. I have followed sport routes without helmet although not
: often. And people have very different definitions of friendly terrain just
: because of different levels of climbing skills and risk tolerance.
: climbing is a inherently dangerous sport and we all trade off risks vs fun.
: as long as you know what you are doing and are aware of risks you are taking
: , I'd say everything is a personal choice, including things like not having
: a bomb proof anchor and free soloing 5.11 which seem insane and reckless in
: others' eyes. I respect people who take a much higher risk than I do, but I
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