p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 1 Runout真厉害啊，动不动就几十个feet的runout。friction slab上的runout尤其吓人
。比起来RRG的sports climbing简直是gym。我问别人我现在能不能爬snake dike，一
个rope length的runout啊，别人说，没有啦，就half rope length的run out，而且是
在5.4的部分，很简单！我汗。
爬granite不多，真要换个climbing area要学的东西好多啊。同感qun说的5.6的trad
lead都没那么容易呢。 |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 2 Day 3是snake dike。我居然完全没有拍照，估计是大风吹得冷的。Qun拍了很多照片。
等她上吧。回来以后觉得这一天的climb对我们两个来说都是一个突破。虽然是5.7的路
线，但snake dike的每一个pitch都让你不敢掉以轻心。
Crux不是三个runout pitch。实际上runout的部分是我们觉得最fun的部分，我们爬得
都搞不清楚我们在第几个pitch了，胡乱爬下来居然跟topo上爬得一样。呵呵
第一和第三个pitch的friction slab还是比较serious的，都很runout。第一个pitch的
friction很滑，如果掉的话是个30 ft pendulum，我们前面六个人无论leader还是
follower无一幸免。还好buzzy的无敌friction slab奠定了我的信心。第三个pitch
buzzy上的时候走的还是一个5.8的variation，还run out。据buzzy说我一边lead一边
骂娘，骂了一路。我自己居然一点都不知道。
如果说beta，那么无论leader还是follower，都需要solid on 5.8 slab |
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 3 the accident has nothing to do with endurance
it's more like to stay cautious and alert during climbing, always check the
quality of the holds before putting all your weight on them, especially when
it's runout & the rock is not very solid. So that when one hold broken, you
can still hold yourself. I have only climbed at red rocks >2 weeks, and I
already had broken holds a few times (fortunately mostly on TR).
And of coz, try to avoid runout if possible, even if it's an easy climb. Too
much runo... 阅读全帖 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 4 Last season, I took 2 falls because of broken holds. Once TR and once on
lead. The one on TR was an easy 5.6 route and that is the first time I have
taken a fall on a 5.6. Second time was a 5.8 sport. I was nearing the
anchors, about 6-8 feet above the last bolt. It was a bit scary but
fotunately the terrain was vertical enough that I didn't hit anything.
I have broken a hold at Red Rocks, I think it was on the last pitch of Going
Nuts. Fortunately it was very easy terrain and I didn't fall even... 阅读全帖 |
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 5 It should be a nice practice for Yosemite trip. Same kind of rock, same kind
of moves and similar level of rating. According to Takeo, its difficulty
should be same as Nutscracker, some cracks, some friction moves, runout with
40 years of bolt/pitons. My biggest worry is that 30 feet of finger crack,
there are two cracks you can use stemming and some liebacks, but making
those difficult moves and same time figuring out setting the right pro every
7, 8 feet is just hard&scary. French free may hel... 阅读全帖 |
|
p*******e
发帖数: 186 | 6 美国修车铺的mechanic很多都是社区学院培养出来的，能力有多强不好下结论。我没有
在任何一家修车铺看过检测尺寸公差的设备，比如量circular runout, total runout
，cylindricity的工具，估计manual micrometer都不知道如何读数。况且现在的车都
有很复杂的电路，读取信号对他们更是可望不可及。买车这种事只能是个人运气＋车的
口碑。 |
|
k********r
发帖数: 579 | 7 网上看到的，大伙都来试试吧。
提醒一下，要有心理准备哈， 现实很残酷的，哈哈
练完了来这里汇报一下成绩
This is a nine ball drill that can give you feedback on your skill level
based off your runout potential. I was told about this drill by a strong
player named mr. Stevens out of va. The results are estimates I determined
based off some different players skill levels participating in this drill.
Instructions.
Your going to do 10 racks of nine ball. Every ball you pocket is worth 1
point, including balls pocketed on the break.
After you break. St... 阅读全帖 |
|
y******n
发帖数: 1077 | 8 Fall season的playoff，我SL5对阵对手SL6。之前战绩二胜一负，这是一个4:5的race。
我略有心理优势。
他赢了lag，一个ining赢下第一局；我两个ining赢下第二局；第三局我breakrun；之后
他连赢三局。此时比分我2:4落后，他拿到赛点。他第七局开球没进球，我runout清台，
比分追到3:4。决胜局我dry break，他runout清台。最终比分3:5输掉。八局总ining 1
1。虽然输掉，但这是我发挥最好的一场比赛，酣畅淋漓。
感受：开球太重要了。 |
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 9 That is the reason I don't want to fall on alpine routes. Not only because
of runouts, but also pendulum.
runout |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 10 今天刚收到的，American Alpine Club寄过来的。粗粗翻了下
Sports climbing大部分的事故都是gri-gri或者其它稀奇古怪的belay device的问题。
最简单的ATC没出过问题
Trad climbing最常出现的问题是device pull-out + runout。device pull-out我身边
一起爬的人也不时发生过，但如果不runout，而且properly backed up也没出过问题
头盔救了很多人的命
day climb不带头灯，走丢；即使call rescue，别人都找不到你。尤其是经验不足的人
无法按时完成climb，再没带头灯。这两个有显著correlation会出事
rappel accident很多，rappel anchor出问题，rappel off end都有
rock/glacier climbing 落石造成的事故很常见
self arrest失败造成长距离滑坠
出发之前查天气预报是必做的功课。dayhike camp muir都有人风暴里冻死的
还有，free solo的事故基本都是fatal |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 11 How is the runout on that coulior?
If the runout is safe, probably a sliding of a couple of hundred feet is fin
e...
release |
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 12 够runout的话，sport也白搭
她的gear都没fail，就是runout太远，掉下来就悲剧了
我看了这个事故之后就梦见在爬石头一路许多掰一掰踩一踩就掉的点，导致我一个
pitch爬了无穷久 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 solar slab有好几个pitch你想不runout都不行，没好地方放pro。这种线要么就不要爬
，要么就很confident很calm的快速通过runout区。
you
12
which
just |
|
T*********I
发帖数: 10729 | 14 一般的民众都会这么想。你y要来夺枪。或者让买枪更难。
那我就先存点。
和矿泉水要runout所以囤积是一个道理。 |
|
|
l*******o
发帖数: 669 | 16 35 is not that bad at all. Even the slope below Panaroma point is about 38
degree, although it has good runout.
Anyway I will defintely climb it next year. Will carry my downhill ski to
top of the lift if not higher. Gerdo, if you can do in May or early June, I
will go with you.
never |
|
x***k
发帖数: 3311 | 17 Do it! I changed title but runout of IDs to do it.
NND |
|
y******n
发帖数: 1077 | 18 我跟他本人打过，也跟他提到的那个老头打过
的确如此，Breakrun 和 Runout的概率很高
基本上一个失误之后八九成就没上手机会了
那个老头是麻州业余的顶尖高手，出书教课
他们那个league水平很高，否则老头也不会参加
我在另一个league也总和类似水平的人打球
九尺的台子，袋口很小，但球台很滑
那哥们经常连续三杆breakrun
但是比赛时就很难打出来，呵呵 |
|
F**y
发帖数: 322 | 19 在理。7尺打8球本来就很困难了，遮挡太多，runout很难。这周末一定注意safety的运
用。多谢老兄啦！ |
|
F**y
发帖数: 322 | 20 时间：2012年1月28号，周六上午
比赛：APA 8 ball Fall 2011 Tri-cup tournament 1st round
赛况：
1.背景 - Tri-cup顾名思义，一年有三次这样的赛事。每年三个season playoff的前两
名能晋级到该赛事。一般在此赛事上获胜两轮的队伍将获准参加regional qualify的比
赛。去年我在另一个队伍里，参加了一次这样的比赛，第一轮就被人家3比0扫地出门了
。这次是跟新队友参战，决绝不能首轮落败了。赛前2，3天，bracket和roster公布到
了网上。我把周六首轮对手和第二轮可能遭遇的两个对手的statistics整理了出来，为
派兵遣将做辅助。
2.比赛 - 这次比赛场地离我住处开车得1小时15分有余，9点半正式开打，7点钟就起床
了，困啊！将将赶在9点半前到了赛场，找到队友，迅速掏出对手资料和队长讨论起来
。由于对方人数和级别分的限制，他们想用满23点的话，只有34556这一种组合。
抛硬币后，我方先派。经过讨论，我们派上3级的选手打头阵（其实是我们的3级选手主
动请缨）。对方毫不迟疑以3级迎战。统计数据显示... 阅读全帖 |
|
t********t
发帖数: 5415 | 21 天门山那个纯是红牛拿钱买athlete命啊。最后一个jump runout各种短，当天还下雨... |
|
k******a
发帖数: 2436 | 22 in that case, is there a clock runout, end of quarter? |
|
f********r
发帖数: 3155 | 23 22LR弹壳大把。。。哈哈
Lapua一刀一个的弹壳，直接用，不用分类，不用uniform flash hole，不用检查
runout，hot load打个十次都没问题，超值 |
|
w*****r
发帖数: 385 | 24 Back when famous guidebook author Bruce Fairley took up mountaineering, he
was given an ice axe by an 'instructor' as he started his first (and quite
difficult) snow climb and told "If you fall, stick it in".
Really, that's all you need to know. Not rocket science. But you will find
that an awful lot of practice with "sticking it in" comes in handy for
avoiding unpleasant consequences. Choose a practice area with a safe runout
in case you can't get it to work the first time. Finally, practice u |
|
R******e
发帖数: 2254 | 25 sports的最大好处是你可以假定bolts绝对可靠，只要你离开地面（户外）3个bolts以
上，又不是runout的路线，就算fall了，只要belayer能catch住，基本上也是比较安全
的fall
trad就是另外一码事了 |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 26 sometimes, one does not want to fall becasue of mental issue, but in runout
pitch, leader must not fall |
|
|
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 29 x不是长度问题，而是你会不会有ground fall
runout顶多也就是个long fall，其实还好，而且如果在你能力范围内，还是可以的 |
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 30 赞，今天从一个朋友那里听了一堆red rocks的建议，据说那里的5.7相当于yosemite的
5.6, 而且几乎没有runout.
敢开 |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 31 are you sure? Tunnel vision (5.7) has a half rope length runout chimney at
5.6. |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 32 half dome snake dike (5.7) has a rope length runout, not even a chimney
at |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 33 I just checked superTopo Snake Dike - the biggest runout is 75ft at 5.4 |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 34 I didn't climb this route, but from what I heard from someone who climbed
this route, there is rope length runout
you can also check onsight's TR |
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 35 it depends
i did ultraman in the first day of this trip, and it is pretty runout
5.8 face climbing, high recommended |
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 36 I'm short, but I didn't find this route reachy or awkward or runout
mountain project上说：
Pain in the Neck 5.10 R
FA: Unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 187 page views
Description
This route may have been named for the difficulty in getting to and clipping
the first two bolts.
Near the far right end of the Sweet Pain wall there is a big rounded bowl
inset into the wall.
Climb up and into the bowl of rock, clipping one bolt. Reportedly this route |
|
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 38 what pro did he put in? Is it a good placement or marginal? A good placement
would not be too bad for a 20-30 ft runout
to |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 39 Yep, the runout looks pretty descent. A nice place for ski mountaineering
the |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 40 grades don't really mean a lot. I have made a few 5.11 moves on top ropes in
the gym but that is far from someone who can solid lead trad sustained
multiple pitch 5.11 routes.
Different climbing styles also vary A LOT. I have led hard 5.8 easy 5.9
friction slabs but struggle with 5.7 cracks top rope @ Tieton River.
Also, if you incorporate exposure and runout factors, that's another whole
different story. I have seen 5.10 gym climbers simple freak out on exposed
unprotectable 5.4 moves |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 41 lol. I like over protected routes, much better than runout routes. |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 42 Bolt war has been going on for a long time. I just don't understand, the
horses are out of the barn, what can you do? I'd say, grab one and go for a
ride!
I agree with some bolting rules though:
1. you don't bolt a route if it's protectable by gear. I.e. bolts should
only be drilled on faces
2. you don't retro bolt a classic route without the consent from the first
ascensionists. I.e. Sanke Dike will remain a runout route. |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 43 alpine动作必须要快，rockies的afternoon thunderstorm说来就来。Teton的一些
alpine路线rating是很moderate，但crux是friction slab+ runout
去年去teton的时候8月lower saddle 1ft的雪，我根本就没敢上。加上我partner动作
太慢，就只能放弃了。alpine不可预见的因素太多，rating要比平时single pitch的低
上好几个digit我才敢爬。最简单的Owen-spalding是5.4，但你technical climb不
能solid on 5.7+也不敢爬啊。 |
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 44 sew it up before hard crux, or a move you are not certain. 缝线如果long
pitch，等一会儿out of runner，只能runout，更惊恐，呵呵。 |
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 45 周末可以算是自己攀岩的一次小飞跃，带着ld两天lead了两个4／5个pitch的路线，第
一个是5.7 sports with easy runout slab and 5.7 trad lieback , 第二个是5.6
trad with easy offwidth, 放了很多stoppers/tricam/hex. 找approach路找descend
路设rappel各种技术也都考验了一下，都很顺利也比较有效率的完成。
回想起不到一年前第一次和白菜饼干桶他们一起multipitch lead的时候，两天lead了
两个(还是一个?)5.6 pitch 抖抖嗦嗦错误无数，不会coil绳子不会rig rappel, 被大
家骂死了，呵呵。 后来到red rocks的时候这套流程练习了多次熟悉了很多， 后来又
出去trad leading过几次，但是都是一直依赖更有经验的同伴爬的都是同伴很熟悉有
beta的路线。 直到最近开始才可以觉得对所有环节都足够自信，可以带着新人独立爬
一个没有去过的路线，成就感还是很大的。 :) |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 46 Day 1 The Grack (3-pitch 5.6)是个很好的warm up. 第二个pitch最有意思。pitch 3
有点小runout，不过毕竟是5.6 friction slab，也是对Yosemite典型的friction slab
的一个练习。照片是Qun在lead pitch 2 |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 47 Day 2. Nutcracker (5-pitch 5.8)。之所以经典，这条线有5.8 lieback, 5.8
friction slab (slightly runout), 5.8 roof, and a committed 5.8 bouldary
mantle move。Crux的mantle如果fall的话下面是个小斜坡，好些人这里摔坏了脚踝。
还是比较serious的一条5.8路线。
pitch 1. 5.7 lieback + 5.8 lieback。照片是我在lead 5.8 lieback的部分
pitch 2. 5.4 Qun基本是走上去的，都没怎么放pro
pitch 3. 5.7 这是我爬过的最难的5.7了，sustained + slippery。Great lead, Qun!
pitch 4. 5.8 Crux的5.8 friction slab我一开始还走错了，down climb下来。topo上的
piton很隐蔽，我走过了回头才发现的。这个pitch很长，zigzag，又sustained，我后
来把gear和
sling全用完了，在离topo |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 48 Day 6 天气预报说今明两天valley气温有90多度，于是大家转战Tuolumne Meadow。移
好帐篷就中午了，下午爬了West Country (3-pitch 5.7)。第二个pitch的lieback又滑又
awkward，还是挺难的 （图1, Qun），第三个pitch是5.7 friction slab的runout (图2,
Qun and Buzzy）。我们一致认为这些天爬的friction slab，无论5.7, 5.8还是5.9，都比
snake dike上面的slab要简单... |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 49 当年Royal Robins爬nutcracker只用了nuts，我百思不得其解，只用nuts要怎么runout
啊，我就问了一句，Royal Robins还活着么。
结果当天晚上就见到Royal Robins本人了。老头还挺精神。 |
|
|
