p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 1 I'm not talking about rappelling. I'm talking about belaying the second
using the auto-block mode of ATC
.
of
setting |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 applaud for the court decision. I also don't understand why some people don'
t approve bolting on rappel but OK with ground up approach. Doesn't the
former result in more reasonable and safer bolting?
Ihave |
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 3 First season lead，所以有点上瘾。regular partner不能去的时候，到处找人，挺狼
狈的也不安全。不知道这儿有没有常去gunks的，有兴趣可以周末一起去。Dacks也行，
不过离我比较远，更适合long weekend。I am safe, patient, easy going. Leading
5.8-5.9,follow harder。如果你不能lead也行，但希望能够follow 5.8-5.9，safety
minded, know how to/having experience lead belay and rappel, or at least
willing to learn(and having lots of indoor gym experience)。Thanks for
reading. |
|
j****e
发帖数: 118 | 4 I'm interested! I can't lead, can follow up to 5.9. I know how to lead
belay and rappel, but need someone to check on the lock. Don't have a car.
I'm easy going and very very willing to learn. I do climb in the gym a
lot. But basically I'm a newbie that can't contribute much...:P Oh, I can
bring a brand new rope.
Where do you live?
Leading
safety |
|
s********e
发帖数: 814 | 5 me
doesn't lead, top rope 5.8/5.9, know how to rappel, how to self-rescue(
learned for my last mt rainier summit)
attended a guided trad course last spring, lack of practice(too hot in gunks
this summer). building my rack, and reading books ...
i am in nyc, let me know your plan
btw, anyone in city? gym climbing partner wanted |
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 6 拖了很久，总算一发狠赶在到期之前看完了。
基本知识都了解了，belay escape是基础，加上各种rappel，各种ascending，各种
lower/raise加passing knots, 不过这些个不实际做做肯定是记不住。估计再上个
small party rescue的课差不多了。 |
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 7 off rappel
ready to lower
rope, rope, rope...
呵呵，我也挺无聊的。 |
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 8 呵呵，带别人出去基本就是guide的mode啊。。。周末带两个人，两天没爬几个pitch。
花了半天教了rappel，还是不放心，想想还是全部first pitch，纯guiding mode吧。
。。 |
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 9 赞
rig rappel是啥？
自从学trad开始，我胆子越来越小了
觉得5.6也挺难爬的
descend |
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 10 就是设置rappel阿。
5.6不算难爬但是也要很小心，而且长了就很累， 有个pitch 185feet 我放了9个保护
，大多是nuts, 到后面heel/calf很累就有点紧张了。 这个不知道怎么提高，gym里基
本练习不到这块肌肉。 |
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 11 不是完全新人，和我partner三人组爬过几次， 要不然我也不敢。
周末有个popular的路线，某guide带两客人连cam都不会拆还要guide rappel上上下下
取gear, piss off了好多人。 |
|
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 13 他可能在rappel/lower down吧，呵呵 |
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 14 这个rappel的时候smooth点，就一个hard shell kayak多出来的重量问题不大吧。不要
带着kayak shock load anchor就成。 |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 15 就是带着个船rappel，有啥冲击力？比lead fall冲击力小多了 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 you kidding me? a whipper leader fall on an overhanging sport route can
easily put 10kN force on the rope. the tensile strength of a single rope is
usually well over 25kN.
can you create a 10kN force rappelling with a kayak? |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17 I was hanging out with those rescuers from Sichuan a few weeks ago and I was
shocked to learn that they would use easy daisies to rig tandem rappels in
a rescue situation. |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 18 I was hanging out with those rescuers from Sichuan a few weeks ago and I was
shocked to learn that they would use easy daisies to rig tandem rappels in
a rescue situation. |
|
r******h
发帖数: 809 | 19 We checked the sunset time of Mazama town (6:30pm) and we still had daylight
until 7pm on previous day when we were driving on HWY 20. BUT, on the climb
day, the cloud came out soon, and high mountains there simply block the sun
when it is sitll pretty high. So we got more than 1 hour shorter daylight
than we expected...
One lesson: Bring a headlamp with SUPER wide range and SUPER bright.
Rappelling in complete dark is, err, not very pleasant... |
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 20 the galaxy 10mm is double patterned. I was debating between that and the
supersafe 10.2, leaned towards the extra toughness. Double pattern is nice
but I think threading both ends together in setting up the rappel will do
most of the time... |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 21 not all galaxies are, only those "duo"s are. I am done with 10.2 ropes. you
just need the middle mark to set up the rappel
nice |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 rappelling using munter is usually fine, you can always find way to solve
the problem, belaying using munter is another story |
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 23 So if you rappel on both strands, you munter on two biners? I think one
biner is not big enough for two knots... |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 24 I couldn't recall the distance between springboard and mouth cave, maybe 50-
60ft. Single rope would be more than enough.
Rich and I climbed up through west face variation. Two other guys rappelled
down from springboard and met us at the Bohn street. We aided the boltline t
o mouth cave, and setup traverse, topped out, returned to mouth cave and pla
yed around for a couple of hours.
be |
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 25 For Tyrolean Traverse, it's a single 100m static blue rope, trailed all the
way for the rappel and 2 pitch aid climb. Other ropes in the pictures are
dynamic climb ropes. |
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 26 Looks like that the helicopter we saw was for the injured hiker, as for its
landing location.
As for the broken handhold, the climbing day was warm & sunny, in perfect
condition, but the previous day was raining hard. The sandstone in Red Rocks
needs at least 24 hours to dry out back to good condition. I fear that this
had something to do with the accident. The rock quality in Red Rocks is not that
good. Many times when lowering down or rappelling, foot stepping on rock easily
breaks off rock pi... 阅读全帖 |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 27 You have to run it out a lot on Solar Slab. Since Red Rocks has a gate, you
basically have to do a 11-pitch climb, rappel down, plus the 1hr approach 12
hour car-to car in total.
It was quite a rush every time I was on Solar Slab. I run out 20+ ft (which
translates to 50 ft fall with rope drag) pretty much on every pro. You just
have to take the chance on this climb. |
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 28 X是个啥？deep water solo?
又看了看，应该是X-climbing, YDS protection rating
A - Ascender
B - Bivy
C - Carabiner
D - Dulfersitz rappel
E - Everest
F - Fall
G - Glissade
H - Helmet
I - Ice axe
J - Jam
K - Knot
L - Layback
M - Munter
N - Nut
O - Off-width
P - Piton
Q - Quickdraw
R - Rope
S - Stove
T - Tyrolean traverse
U - Undercling
V - V-thread
W - Wand
X - X-climbing
Y - Yosemite Grad
Z - Z-pulley |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 不要说天冷了，就算50度，站着不动都冷。我去教课经常被分配站在climbing wall的
顶上教人建anchor和rappel，站上一个上午穿多少都没用 |
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 30 这个不是顺手拿的。
他是专门从旁边的路线上去，（还是stick clip，不是正儿八经爬的），然后rappel下
来拿的。 |
|
z*******y
发帖数: 126 | 31 Some misunderstandings among you guys.
First, this is big-wall climbing. Leo Houlding group lead the climbing by
themselves, and fixed the rope to the anchor where they reached in each day,
then rappel to basecamp. ( wherever there is bad weather people always
do this)
Then use ascender to get on the rope set by themselves to the point reached
in previous day, then free climb again. This is called "Jumar" technique.
Finally, "free climbing" is something just different from aid-climbing. When... 阅读全帖 |
|
r******h
发帖数: 809 | 32 【 以下文字转载自 Travel 讨论区 】
发信人: rotatezh (剃度在莲台下), 信区: Travel
标 题: 向南一百八十度（20）——走回阿根廷
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Sat Mar 5 00:03:34 2011, 美东)
睡觉睡到自然醒。爬起来吃了昨天中午剩下的半个三文鱼三明治当早餐。把帐篷内外仔
仔细细做了个大扫除，快十点了才离开营地晃晃悠悠的下山。身后百内塔峰的方向完完
全全在云里，前面山谷的天倒是不错。Camp Chileno出来沿着Ascencio河的那段路这次
没有什么风，过了和shortcut交汇的岔路口后，就是面向Rio Paine、山谷、以及周围
起伏的丘陵的径直下坡，视野很是开阔。
开始的时候路两侧还是碎石坡，随着海拔渐渐降低，两侧的山坡慢慢被青草和矮灌木所
覆盖。路上游客很多，还遇到一个上行的马队。十一点从一个木头吊桥上过了Rio
Ascencio，十分钟后就看到了Hotel Las Torres的一排白色屋顶的小木屋。
从El Calafate开往Paine的一日游的车子，每天中午1点多到Laguna Amarga放人，5点
半... 阅读全帖 |
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 33 以前都是横着的，或者拧着的。
这样绳子很容易从groove里跳出来，
前段时间parnter抱怨rappel的时候，不smooth。
才注意到。 |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 34 隐瞒事实这事，在哪儿都一样
国外商业登山队也有这么干的
一个最近的例子就是08年 在Ama Dablam出事的cuiwei
在cuiwei出事之前（大概一个月？），一摸一样的rappel off the end of the rope的
事故发生在同样的地点，基本上是同类型的事故。
当时那个公司为了怕影响声誉，没把细节披露出来，否则也不会造成同样的错误短时间
内发生两次了
American |
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 35 SAC那个是单孔的，只能belay，不能rappel |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 36 I was leading the second pitch of Good Tang (3-pitch 5.7 trad) at the Lower
Small Wall as my warm-up, when a hand hold broke and I fell about 30 ft
upside-down, hitting my head and shoulder on the rock. I was conscious but I
couldn’t stop screaming for the first half minute or so. I must have hit
something sharp since my helmet was cut through and blood was dripping out
of my hair. Matt lowered me to the ground. I sat on the ground for about
half an hour before my head stopped bleeding. My left ... 阅读全帖 |
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 37 low angle是最讨厌的，我还有另外一次头朝下fall的经历就是low angle，
不过和攀岩没啥关系，是在雪上rappel。下到一个edge边上，我没注意，
脚下一滑，直接后仰头朝下掉下去了。
幸好底下是overhang的，另外手没松所以绳子是紧的，头没有磕到，
就是绳子一下drop了半个身长，然后头朝下悬在半空中，搞了半天才正过来。
那次跟harness肯定也没有任何关系了，那次用的根本就是alpine bod，
rise只可能长，不可能短。 |
|
s****t
发帖数: 746 | 38 有些线必须有70m的绳子才能爬，不然不够rappel
多背那么点算啥啊，反正也走不了几步路。 |
|
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 39 We have a real beginner with us, and we didn't split up, which obviously
slowed down the process. And some of us had to be supervised to learn how to
practice rappel correctly... We definitely want to improve our efficiency
and do more sport climbing in the following weeks.
driving/
where
was |
|
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 40 wow... rich guy!
i have only bought one pad, my friends bought gears for sport climbing and
trad... we all share equipment/gears...
i need sling and locking caribiner for rappel, been using friends'... |
|
|
F**********e
发帖数: 2135 | 42 这个Rappelling需要什么装备和技巧上的准备？门外汉一个的话，怎么准备可以玩？ |
|
F**********e
发帖数: 2135 | 43 这样啊，哎，我还是随便走走吧。下个月可能去附近出差，本来看了你的帖子很动心的
不过是自己给自己
Rappelling，需要boulering，哦，还需要游泳 |
|
m****g
发帖数: 3975 | 44 已把参加活动分成ABC组, 最高组是A
A组要求: 很强的野外生存能力, 很强的水上自救能力 和强的团队救援能力
B组(day trip)要求: 中等的野外生存能力, 不错的水上自救能力 和中等的团队救援能力
B组(多day trip)要求: 不错的野外生存能力, 中等的水上自救能力 和中等的团队救援
能力
A组安排是最野的活动. 定于8/4后的那个星期.
野外生存/ALASKA漂流的救援训练内容:
水上救援
Aggressive Swimming, 翻身上船, throwing rope, boat-based rescue, tag-line
rescue, Z-drag line
陆地救援: 类似攀岩
... rappelling, belaying, Multi-pitching ,prussiking |
|
m****g
发帖数: 3975 | 45 已把参加活动分成ABC组, 最高组是A
A组要求: 很强的野外生存能力, 很强的水上自救能力 和强的团队救援能力
B组(day trip)要求: 中等的野外生存能力, 不错的水上自救能力 和中等的团队救援能力
B组(多day trip)要求: 不错的野外生存能力, 中等的水上自救能力 和中等的团队救援
能力
A组安排是最野的活动. 定于8/4后的那个星期.
野外生存/ALASKA漂流的救援训练内容:
水上救援
Aggressive Swimming, 翻身上船, throwing rope, boat-based rescue, tag-line
rescue, Z-drag line
陆地救援: 类似攀岩
... rappelling, belaying, Multi-pitching ,prussiking |
|
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 46 i always have two sets of belay device on my harness
always... just in case.. :p especially when rappel is involved when climbing
outside |
|
u********r
发帖数: 2525 | 47 我买这跟绳子主要是rappel的，所以理论上不需要dynamic,但是第一根绳子我想买
dynamic的而且确实也work.
dry, 10mm左右，60m,最好是标记了midpoint的 |
|
|
h********r
发帖数: 3291 | 49 check out the video
http://www.ktuu.com/news/ktuu-denali-ranger-washington-monument
The Washington Monument is an amazing sight, and on Monday, Alaskan Brandon
Latham had the best view the 555 ft. structure had to offer — standing
outside the top window.
Latham is a park ranger at Denali National Park. He’s also an expert
climber who was recruited to help a team of engineers climb around the
outside of the monument as they check for damage sustained in August's 5.8
earthquake.
The engineers were... 阅读全帖 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 50 so they can't find in the DC area anyone who can rappel?
Brandon |
|
