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全部话题 - 话题: pitch
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s*****h
发帖数: 44903
1
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Dominique (曾经木木难为水 除却金色不是云) 于 (Sat Dec 30 14:37:39 2017, 美东) 提到:
<2>

上一章写了横跨整个90年代和新世纪初的Braves王朝以后,版霸给我补充了一个当年的
很有趣的小花絮--1995年勇士终于拿下萎琐大赛之后,"德高望重"的珍芳达的老公按捺
不住激动,在冠军戒指上自封"Team of the Decade!!" 班霸给出的画外音是“这个年
代才过了一半,猴急个啥呀!! 结果,在Decade剩下的一半里 ,洋基赢了四次,
其中两次是击败勇士赢得,显然更符合Team of the Decade的头衔。” 嗯,班霸当年
的确很有先见之明,成功预言了洋基的强势崛起。。。那么在这里咱们姑且就做个中和
,把Braves称做是Team of the 1st half of that decade。:) 拿下95年的ws后,可
想而知Bra... 阅读全帖
T*********e
发帖数: 39815
2
来自主题: Outdoors版 - [合集] Mt. Washington climb
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TrueCabbage (从今天开始过猪的生活) 于 (Sun Sep 28 00:16:55 2008) 提到:
没时间详细写TR了,先简单写一下,发几张照片。
早晨6点出发,9:30到base of summit block, summit block总共3个pitch,第一个
pitch稍微tricky一些,难度不高,lower class 5,只有一个地方有一个5.4的move,但
是比较暴露,加上石头比较松,要比较小心。后面两个pitch都是class 4的,中间偶有
一两个 lower class 5 move. 一路不停有落石。三个pitch都用了fixed line。下的时
候最后两个pitch都是down climb,第一个pitch rappel。 因为只有4个人,效率比较
高,10点钟开始登summit block, 11点10分登顶,在summit上呆了半个小时,下午一点
所有人撤回到base of summit block。 1点半开始下山,4点回到trail head,
T*********e
发帖数: 39815
3
来自主题: Outdoors版 - Whitney
Actually it is very realistic. Whitney East face only has 6 pitches real cli
mb (1 5.7 pitch, 5 5.6 pitches), the other 7 pitches are either low class 5
or class 3/4 scramble. Leading all pitches on Rainbow buttress is a totally
different story.
It would be fun to lead all pitches on this route, but it won't be fun for t
he follower from my perspective.

my
.
day,
team:
and
one
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
4
来自主题: Outdoors版 - Rocktoberfest at RRG
Cool. A couple of multi-pitch trad routes that I really liked in Red River
Gorge:
Caver's Route (3-pitch 5.3 R, Tower Rock) Don't get lost in the chimney :)
Roadside Attraction (2-pitch 5.7, Roadside) Clean splitter hand crack
Jungle Beat (3-pitch 5.9+, Military Wall) The second pitch is the money
pitch
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
5
来自主题: Outdoors版 - Yosemite流水
Day 2. Nutcracker (5-pitch 5.8)。之所以经典,这条线有5.8 lieback, 5.8
friction slab (slightly runout), 5.8 roof, and a committed 5.8 bouldary
mantle move。Crux的mantle如果fall的话下面是个小斜坡,好些人这里摔坏了脚踝。
还是比较serious的一条5.8路线。
pitch 1. 5.7 lieback + 5.8 lieback。照片是我在lead 5.8 lieback的部分
pitch 2. 5.4 Qun基本是走上去的,都没怎么放pro
pitch 3. 5.7 这是我爬过的最难的5.7了,sustained + slippery。Great lead, Qun!
pitch 4. 5.8 Crux的5.8 friction slab我一开始还走错了,down climb下来。topo上的
piton很隐蔽,我走过了回头才发现的。这个pitch很长,zigzag,又sustained,我后
来把gear和
sling全用完了,在离topo
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
6
来自主题: Outdoors版 - Yosemite流水
Day 3是snake dike。我居然完全没有拍照,估计是大风吹得冷的。Qun拍了很多照片。
等她上吧。回来以后觉得这一天的climb对我们两个来说都是一个突破。虽然是5.7的路
线,但snake dike的每一个pitch都让你不敢掉以轻心。
Crux不是三个runout pitch。实际上runout的部分是我们觉得最fun的部分,我们爬得
都搞不清楚我们在第几个pitch了,胡乱爬下来居然跟topo上爬得一样。呵呵
第一和第三个pitch的friction slab还是比较serious的,都很runout。第一个pitch的
friction很滑,如果掉的话是个30 ft pendulum,我们前面六个人无论leader还是
follower无一幸免。还好buzzy的无敌friction slab奠定了我的信心。第三个pitch
buzzy上的时候走的还是一个5.8的variation,还run out。据buzzy说我一边lead一边
骂娘,骂了一路。我自己居然一点都不知道。
如果说beta,那么无论leader还是follower,都需要solid on 5.8 slab
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
7
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 版上有人这样睡过么?
Royal Arches (15 pitches 5.7)
Matthes Crest 5.7 (Simul-climb most of the 1-mile traverse)
这两个就是两个long day了,是前后都需要take easy的long day
West Crack (4-pitch 5.8)
South Crack (7-pitch 5.8)
Commitement (3-pitch 5.9)
Jam Crack (second pitch 5.9) 我去年被人鄙视没爬这个了。据说很不错
这些加上一些附近的路线又是至少三天了
这些都在我们目前的能力范围之内。今年一个season还能涨一些。不过基本就这些了。
Valley很多off-width,这个要单独练。我去年爬了不少off-width,今年争取多lead些
off-width。如果off-width有长进可以爬爬Central Pillar of Frenzy (5-pitch 5.9
)。不过很多人都说这条是他们爬过的最难的5.9。
j*s
发帖数: 46
8
来自主题: Ski版 - 东部同学看了
Quoting from Blue Ridge Outdoors Magazine.
Fill in the Blank: The steepest terrain in the southeast is found at _______
__ and _________.
A: Sugar Mountain Resort and Snowshoe Mountain Resort
North Carolina’s Sugar Mountain tops out at 5,300 feet and has a total
vertical drop of 1,200 vertical feet, one of the longest cumulative drops of
any resort in the Southeast. But vertical drop alone doesn’t belie a slope
’s steepness. For that, you have to look at the slope’s actual grade or
pitch. That’s... 阅读全帖
p****s
发帖数: 32405
9
【背景旁白】下半场开始,汉达在拉齐奥的反扑中大发神威,力保球门不失。
Handanovic is Clint Eastwood in goalkeeper gloves.
汉达诺维奇绝壁是个戴着手套的伊斯特伍德呀。 (著名硬派动作明星)
【萨内蒂登场!】
I name this Zanettime
我把这称为萨内蒂时间
that brief run by jz just gave me chills
萨队刚才那次带球跑让我浑身发抖呀
Capitano still has it. Even at 41. What a legend.
队长依旧牛逼,即使在41岁的年纪,怎样的传奇啊。
Mazzarri's not usually this serious, especially considering the scoreline. Perhaps he knows he's not staying beyond this season?
马扎里咋还一脸严肃啊,都这比分了。也许他知道这赛季完了他要下课?
-Or maybe he's upset he had to play Zanetti
... 阅读全帖
f********4
发帖数: 2883
10
Talking to Molly McNearney, the Co-Head Writer of Jimmy Kimmel Live
http://splitsider.com/2011/11/talking-to-molly-mcnearney-the-co
One of the most hot button issues in comedy right now is the lack of women
writing for late night. Molly McNearney is the only woman who currently
writes for Jimmy Kimmel Live, but she is also the co-head writer. Molly
chatted with me about how she got her start in comedy, her favorite bits
that she’s contributed to the show and what it’s like being a woman behind
t... 阅读全帖
n****o
发帖数: 2339
11
所以你就能从楼主的描述里觉得拿孩子记谱是没有指出绝对音高的?
实际上,能写谱的孩子是不多的,当然孩子的一般概念是十岁以下吧。因为没有
PERFECT PITCH,要训练记忆相对TONE,需要的是长时间的训练。而能写谱的孩子,
PERFECT PITCH的比例非常高,因为知道绝对音高的人在写谱的时候需要的训练容易得
多。
另外没有PERFECT PITCH的人是有不少成为音乐家。但是有PERFECT PITCH的人的比例要
高很多。色盲不是不能去当画家,但是毕竟当画家的色盲是很少的。或者比如弄钢琴,
这个PERFECT PITCH的要求就低很多,就像色盲可以学中国传统水墨
画,成大师的比例要高很多。
X***9
发帖数: 7385
12
这里不细述本田具体有些什么安全技术,只说几个事实来表明一下本田的态度
日本这么一个寸土是金的地方,本田在并不是那么有钱的情况下2000年就在日本栃木
縣Tochigi兴建了当时世界第一个市内全天候多角度全方位的真实车对车的碰撞试验场
这个场地的大小相当于一个职业联盟棒球场,可以实现多角度,多状况实车碰撞实验
角度从每15度可变,而且重叠测试可以是100%,50%和10%
03年,本田又在美国ohio投资3千万美元新建了“Automotive Safety Research
Facility”
拥有可移动的100吨的crash barrier block,速度可以从2.5mph到60mph,侧撞角度可以
从90度调整到27度
同时拥有2家世界上最先进和复杂的室内碰撞实验场,目前还没有其他厂家能有本田这
么用心。
本田花了3年的时间开发了世界第一个"pitching sled test" 有效的模拟了前撞时候车
后部惯性抬起的状态可能。
“The crash-test simulator with pitching capabilities provides accurate
simula... 阅读全帖
t*********e
发帖数: 1136
13
全家出动一般小孩坐中间一排,老人做第三排。衡量第三排座椅的舒适程度最重要的标
准是Legroom,就是从第三排椅子屁股底位置到第二排椅子背的距离。中国人大多不是
很胖,横向空间一般都没有什么问题。
这个Legroom在飞机上又称Seat Pitch。举个例子,United Airlines的美国国内波音
737经济舱Seat Pitch大多数是31 inch,公务舱和Economy Plus的Seat Pitch是38-42
inch。常坐飞机的都知道31 inch和38 inch的差别是多么大。
那我们就来比比Honda Odyssey和GM Tahoe, Buick Enclave第三排座椅的Legroom:
Honda Odyssey: 42.4 inch
Buick Enclave: 33.2 inch
GM Tahoe: 24.8 inch
GM Tahoe这个庞然大物居然第三排如此之惨。让老人坐第三排情何以堪。只有奥德赛的
舒适程度达到飞机公务舱水平。而且奥德赛第二排椅子是可以前后移动的。如果第二排
人小不需要很多Legroom,还能让第三排的Legroom增加,变得更舒适... 阅读全帖
r***l
发帖数: 163
14
大伙看看这位有没有道理。你会如何预测明天的利率呢?
by Matthew Graham
High Risk Event For Mortgage Rates Tomorrow
Dec 1 2011, 2:23PM
Much like yesterday (and the day before), Mortgage-Backed-Securities (MBS),
began the day in weaker territory and rallied in the latter part of the day.
Unlike yesterday, we started off in weak enough territory this morning
that the improvements in MBS were not enough to see a positive change in
Mortgage Rates. In fact, rates are a bit higher today, still centered on a
4.0% Best-Executio... 阅读全帖
D*****t
发帖数: 558
15
来自主题: Parenting版 - 绝对音高
perfect pitch or absolute pitch is a complex phenomenon and is related to
many factors. People with perfect pitch is indeed very rare, but is more
common in asian countries especially east asia, than european countries.
This points to a genetic cause or something related to the mother tongue.
Perfect pitch is not as common as you would think among musicians. In music
history, Mozart, Saint-Saen, maybe Beethoven, Yoyo Ma are few who are said
to have it. Whether it has anything to do with musical ... 阅读全帖
d********1
发帖数: 3828
16
其实这些东西pitch是很大一方面。不会pitch,搞出好东西也没人理。这个东西我觉得
实质性的发明,发现层次并不高,主要是pitch的好。
感觉中国人在pitch方面普遍差。你看中国人做生意,大多是打价格战,而不是靠pitch
,忽悠。
t*******r
发帖数: 22634
17
来自主题: Parenting版 - 推娃到底要不要钢琴十级?
perfect pitch 为啥要随大流学钢琴?难道是弹钢琴时一只脚伸在琴里面实时
调音么?@@。。。perfect pitch 搞个提琴或声乐才更发挥长处是不是?。。。
再说了,perfect pitch 也好意思拿出来当个事说。。。特么这世界上
perfect pitch 的人不要太多了。。。再说了,多少者名的古典音乐家根本
就不是 perfect pitch,一样空前绝后。。。更不要说流行音乐了。。。
f*********p
发帖数: 643
18
来自主题: Boston版 - 发11个包子安慰一下
How can you blame this epic fall only on Pitching Coach?
The blame should start at GM Theo Epstein. He is the one who built this team.
The team didn't need much of offense at beginninng of off season, but he
spent all the big money on two position players .. Carl Crawford and Andrian
Gonzalez -- total over $300. With this money, they could have got more than
one Ace starting pitcher and a few bullpen helps.
What does Ace starting picther do to you? Stop bleeding! When your team are
on a losing s... 阅读全帖
r****t
发帖数: 10904
19
【 以下文字转载自 WaterWorld 讨论区 】
发信人: fighter644 (武士), 信区: WaterWorld
标 题: Re: 原来JK脱口秀是由职业writer团队写出脚本的, Co-head Writer为
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Sun Oct 27 15:50:38 2013, 美东)
Talking to Molly McNearney, the Co-Head Writer of Jimmy Kimmel Live
http://splitsider.com/2011/11/talking-to-molly-mcnearney-the-co
One of the most hot button issues in comedy right now is the lack of women
writing for late night. Molly McNearney is the only woman who currently
writes for Jimmy Kimmel Live, but she is also the co-head w... 阅读全帖
G****a
发帖数: 10208
20
The last time the St. Louis Cardinals and the San Francisco Giants met in
the playoffs, in the 2012 National League Championship Series, the Cardinals
jumped out to a three-games-to-one lead and had a chance to close out the
series at home. Then the Giants stormed back, winning the last three games
in swift, dominating fashion.
John Mozeliak, the Cardinals’ general manager, recalled that series, the
collapse and the aftermath during batting practice Sunday evening. The
Cardinals did not sound an... 阅读全帖
w**k
发帖数: 24
21
来自主题: SanFrancisco版 - 对startup有兴趣的同学
30秒pitch session结束以后,是自由交流的时间。所以要用30秒的时间激发别人的兴
趣。
去找钱的时候,这个是个很重要的技能,牛人们都很忙,不会给你很多时间详述你的
business plan,所以才有 elevator
pitch这一说,你必须在很短时间让他对你的idea感兴趣,然后他才可能给你更多时间
详谈。
pitch your idea和share your business plan是两回事。
其实elevator pitch不是那么容易的。我自己拿两个公司做练习:
假如facebook,twitter还不存在,你想做一个这样的东西,去找VC要钱,你怎么跟他
们说清楚。我觉得pitch这两个公司
都很难,一不小心就可能被dismiss成the dumbest idea of the day...
S*A
发帖数: 7142
22
来自主题: SanFrancisco版 - 有人玩遥控直升机的么?
最近搞了个 blade MSR, 实在好玩。
这个 blade MSR 一年前出来的时候就特别想搞一个,但是考虑手
头上有类似级别的 Walkera 4#3b,就一直没有动手。
最近在 101 附近的 AeroMicro 看到 blade MSR 有 deal,
送一个 battery. 然后就败了一个。 $104.99 (不带遥控器那种,
我自己有飞其他飞机的遥控器,是通用的。带遥控器的 $139).
回家玩了几天,真是好玩。这个 blade MSR 真是最理想的室内
迷你直升机了。首先特别轻,不带电池 23g, 带电池 27g。
而且和 mcx 一样,都是用用很软的塑料做的框,非常皮实。
连 fly bar 都是软塑料的,怎么撞都不坏,而且也不怕把别
的东西打坏。我在家里坠机不下几十次了,还是毫发无损。
飞行性能还不错。和 mcx 一样,是自我稳定的,可以松开遥控器
飞机自己在空中基本定住。然后活动起来也可以跑很快,这个和
mcx 不一样,mcx 是推一下几乎不动,使劲推才走一点。 msr
轻轻推一下也是走一点,但是使劲推的话就可以比较快活动起来。
MSR 出厂的设置是比较稳定不爱... 阅读全帖
p****t
发帖数: 5814
23
来自主题: Baseball版 - 请大家加入MLB FANTASY BASEBALL
我想今年就加入一下随便玩一下,熟悉一下,如果觉得好的话,明年可以从新开始玩。
不过今年还有PLAYOFF可以玩啊。
主要差别,界面差别很大,MLB FANTASY做的很好。计分系统完全不一样,每个人都计
分,不过投
手不单独计分,只挑一个对计分。具体计分如下:
Point Scoring System
Your players/pitching staffs will score points for you each day on which
MLB games are played based on the following formula:
Hitters
Single = 1
Double = 2
Triple = 3
Home Run = 4
Run = 1
RBI = 1
Walk = 1
Stolen Base = 2
Caught Stealing = -1
Pitching Staffs
Win = 3
Strikeouts
0-5 = 0
6-7 = 1
8-9 = 2
10-12 = 3
13-15 = 5
16-19 = 7
20+ = 10
Earned R... 阅读全帖
w****b
发帖数: 623
24
来自主题: Baseball版 - 有没有小孩打棒球的?
呵呵我也来晒一晒。
My little son (10 yrs) used to play soccer (he still does), but he joined
little league this year under the influence of his big brother (12 yrs), who
has played baseball for 5th year and still going.
Today they played a playoff game for the season. They lost their previous
one and are facing elimination (double elimination format).
In the top of 1st, he played 1st base, and caught a sharp liner to end the
inning, leaving a couple of runners on base.
Then he came to the plate with scor... 阅读全帖
G****a
发帖数: 10208
25
The last time the St. Louis Cardinals and the San Francisco Giants met in
the playoffs, in the 2012 National League Championship Series, the Cardinals
jumped out to a three-games-to-one lead and had a chance to close out the
series at home. Then the Giants stormed back, winning the last three games
in swift, dominating fashion.
John Mozeliak, the Cardinals’ general manager, recalled that series, the
collapse and the aftermath during batting practice Sunday evening. The
Cardinals did not sound an... 阅读全帖
J*C
发帖数: 4579
26
来自主题: Baseball版 - Royals hoping Wang is spring success story
http://m.royals.mlb.com/news/article/167573884/chien-ming-wang-
SURPRISE, Ariz. -- In every Royals camp, it seems, someone off baseball's
radar screen suddenly emerges.
Last year it was Ryan Madson, who hadn't pitched in the big leagues since
2011, but he made the Royals' Opening Day roster and had a superb season.
This year's camp surprise could be 35-year-old Chien-Ming Wang, who won 19
games in back-to-back seasons in 2006-07. But Wang hasn't pitched in the big
leagues since '13.
Spring Train... 阅读全帖
b***y
发帖数: 2804
27
来自主题: Bridge版 - Some thoughts on one hand
OK, reconstruct the play, say LHO started with 4351 shape:
Trick 1, H2 lead, RHO plays HJ, you duck
Trick 2: RHO plays low H, you win HK
Trick 3-4: you cash CAK (LHO pitches a D)
Trick 5: you play a H, RHO wins
Trick 6: RHO cashes 1 more H (LHO pitches a D), leaving 1 H un-cashed
Trick 7: RHO plays a spade, you win SA
Trick 8: you play CQ, LHO pitches 3rd D
At this point, LHO has 3 spades and 2 D, all you need to do is to play D to
DA. The "best" defense you suggested (to cash 4th H but not last... 阅读全帖
N*********6
发帖数: 4372
28
来自主题: NCAA版 - Miller的三个TO是最致命的
虽然他的Decision Making很差,很多时候持球时间过长,犹豫不定
喜欢自己持球,而不pitch,有一次连续两个play该pitch不pitch然后
被sack或者造成第一个fumble,实在是令人无语
反观三个失误
第一个是INT,基本已经到红区了,momentum高涨,结果无脑扔球到
人堆里面,没有审时度势的能力,到手的至少三分没了,形势逆转
第二个是Fumble, 就是该pitch的时候不pitch,当时已经是连续两个
play如此,ball security一点意识都没有,总是单手持球,被人从
后面一捅就掉了,当时也在MSU Territory,非常可惜
如果说前两个还可以解释的话,第三个就根本说不过去了,我当时真的
以为他是down了之后球出来的,没想到慢镜头一看是脚好像戳在地上了
一下,估计当时很疼,可是在没有contact到球的情况下自己把球扔掉
了,这是什么道理?你要扔也得扔到边线外面啊,完全不负责任或者不
懂得规则的愚蠢错误扔到地上,多亏裁判和我一样没看清楚,否则真有
可能return一个TD,这个是三个失误里面最dumb,最不可原谅的一个,
差点这场比赛就毁... 阅读全帖
T*********e
发帖数: 39815
29
Dragontail Serpentine Arete, Grade IV, 5.8 (from zd8848)
Bartosz and I climbed Dragontail via Serpentine Arete on 8/2/2008. It's a 16
-pitch route covering about 2000 vertical feet. It has one or two 5.8
pitches, 3-4 5.7 pitches, a couple of 5.5-5.6 pitches and 8 low 5th class or
4th class pitches.
Our plan is to do a one-day climb. We started from Stuart Lake trailhead at
3:00am and reached the fork of Stuart Lake and Colchuck Lake in 50 minutes.
Shortly after the fork, we managed to lose the t
T*********e
发帖数: 39815
30
来自主题: Outdoors版 - back from smith rock
Weather was hot today, 90+F...
Got my first multi-pitch 5.7 trad lead
Led cinnamon slab in the morning, two pitches trad, first pitch 5.6, second
pitch 5.4
From the top of cinnamon, scrambled down to the west side spiderman buttress
. Nice shade.
Led Spiderman, three pitches, all 5.7 trad.
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
31
前几天一直是三个人一起爬,其中一个临时加入我们的人,其实是我们gym最好的
sports climber,trad也爬过些single-pitch了,但爬multi-pitch简直就让人发指。
我们等她lead一个pitch等得都快冻死了。天都快黑了还非要lead一个5.9 full rope-
length pitch,本来说好了bail的,等她上来不由分说就一定要lead,而且还是trad
anchor,最后所有人只能leave gear and bail in the dark。下来以后居然还一点都
不feel sorry,下到底下不停地兴奋地说自己那个pitch怎么惊险,我在大黑天地了
trail,站在那里等她,都想骂娘了,不知道没到家你就还没安全啊。晚上睡觉前说,
今天真是good day啊,我都想打人了,13 hr day, bail in the dark,没有epic的唯
一原因就是我们另外两个人以前在这里爬过,知道几乎所有的repel station的位置,
和trail的位置。错就错在我们另外两个人没有强烈反对。以后该bail就要bail,我太
不坚决了。今天她终于
E***y
发帖数: 336
32
来自主题: Outdoors版 - 严东东同学的事故
最近想重新把攀岩捡起来。
正在看以前上lead和anchor课时,老师发的大纲/材料。
就那么几页纸。不过还是收获不少。好像都是干货,把各种情况都讲到了。
其中有一条就是:
如果想作为一个trad leader“毕业”,必须lead最少4 pitches of aid.
不过问题又来了,首先aid的gear要多不少,而且以后不aid也用不上。
其次aid也得先学呀,还得上他的aid课,上aid课的前提是要能multi pitch,
还得先上multi pitch课。
感觉他的课真的很不错,虽然很贵,而且没有书上讲的细。
但全是干货和他自己的经验。真后悔没把他的课上全,剩下下面的课没上。
Multi-Pitch: 3 hours/days, two days, $155
– Rope management
– Swinging leads
– Specific dangers
– Anchor review
– What if I drop my belay device
– Multi-Pitch Rappelling.
Self-Rescue: 9 hours, $155
How t... 阅读全帖
p**********t
发帖数: 2636
33
来自主题: Outdoors版 - Red Rocks Christmas to New Year
I've only been there three times. I bet you'll spend a lot of time at Oak
Creek Canyon. Solar Slab (and many of its variations, including the 5.9
chimney variation, called some book I think) are must-do. The original route
is 11-pitch 5.6, and lots of its variations are nice too. We did the
Sunflower variation (5.9) and liked it. Use the gulley repel. Don't try to
repel Johney Vegas or your rope will get seriously stuck.
Brass Wall is very nice and soaks in the sun. It gets some 1-2 pitch stuffs... 阅读全帖
o*****e
发帖数: 379
34
来自主题: Outdoors版 - [TR] Guye Peak Attempt...
人生又完整了一点...
周末本来是去Black Peak的,星期五早上North Cascades HWY因为洪水关闭,只能临时
另找地方。Stan和John几个星期前刚刚爬过Guye的Improbable Traverse,就提议带我
们去那里,毕竟他们很熟悉路线。那条路线是5.8的,我在网上查了一下,5.8的move只
有2-3个,是balancy move,而且前后都有piton,(对我来说就意味着实在不行可以
aid了),感觉还是可以试试的。问Stan和John路线的rating有多stiff,一个回答说主
要的concern在approach上的一段class 4的friction的scramble,因为刚下了一个星期
的雨,石头上肯定还很潮,另一个说觉得hiking out is the most difficult part,
貌似都觉得climbing本身并不难,于是大家纷纷表示愿意去Guye。
星期天早上7点在North Bend集合,一起开车过去。停车场就在Guye的west face正下方
,一下高速就是,非常方便。抬头就能看清west face上我们今天要走的整... 阅读全帖
i*******8
发帖数: 7955
35
看到过一个binding,鼠标的左右是yaw,鼠标的上下是pitch,这样就和打枪一样瞄准
,适合打慢速或者固定目标,但是狗斗不一定最好。
Key Bindings
mouse:
look up = pitch up
look down = pitch down
look left = yaw left
look right = yaw right
keyboard:
w = pitch down
s = pitch up
a = roll left
d = roll right
space = accelerate
left control = brake
left shift = afterburer
numpad - = eject (I use it so I don't eject on accident during heavy
dogfights)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hro0A2wCww
e********y
发帖数: 216
36
来自主题: Music版 - 【讨论】有关颤音
他说的是not under the pitch, you must spin on the top. It must be above the pitch.
他示范的准确的颤音都是 a pitch a little above the pitch的
上面说的音色的变化是颤音的直观效果之一, 不是说 pitch变化是因为音色的关系
t*******r
发帖数: 22634
37
一般唱进 10 cent 的应该不算跑了。
专业美声唱进 5 cent 我觉得就算非常准了,提琴基本也就到
这个标准差不多了。
另外美声/提琴一堆颤音在那里,颤音时的主管 pitch 是比较接
近高点,不过最终还是看主管感觉。
当然,如果是纯律和平律之间的偏差不算,那个算个人对音准
的处理。
另外 jazz 的 pitch bend 也不算,如果 jazz vocal 一点都
不搞 pitch bend 搞不好被人看不起。。。
pitch 的精确性固然重要,pitch 的灵活性也同样重要,具体
看风格。
t*******r
发帖数: 22634
38
学术派跳进来说,perfect pitch == absolute pitch,跟
准不准关系不大。
perfect pitch 唱不准的多了去了,心里的音叉列没有校准而已。
perfect pitch 里只有一小部分是直接可以唱准的,大部分还
只能听准。
不过 perfect pitch 上台表演有优势,主要是不容易手环境
影响。
t*******r
发帖数: 22634
39
哒哒说的有道理。perfect pitch 就是 absolute 的意思,
不一定准。
其实我觉得 perfect pitch 唱和声优势不大,因为和声
总是要听着别人和,perfect pitch 相对不那么注意音程。
perfect pitch 唱独唱(乐队伴奏,不是跟磁带)可能有
一定优势,因为独唱领着乐队走,自己如果能准,不一定
要管乐队。尤其是唱得比较响导致返送听不清乐队的情况。
另外,perfect pitch 在返送方面,可以保证优先听清自
己的声音,乐队伴奏不那么有所谓。
f********4
发帖数: 2883
40
Talking to Molly McNearney, the Co-Head Writer of Jimmy Kimmel Live
http://splitsider.com/2011/11/talking-to-molly-mcnearney-the-co
One of the most hot button issues in comedy right now is the lack of women
writing for late night. Molly McNearney is the only woman who currently
writes for Jimmy Kimmel Live, but she is also the co-head writer. Molly
chatted with me about how she got her start in comedy, her favorite bits
that she’s contributed to the show and what it’s like being a woman behind
t... 阅读全帖
M****o
发帖数: 7045
41
来自主题: _Inter版 - [翻译场]意大利杯决赛复盘
Inter 3-1 Palermo: Sneijder-Eto’o combination twice opens up Palermo
May 30, 2011
(原文链接:http://www.zonalmarking.net/2011/05/30/inter-3-1-palermo-coppa-italia-2011/
国际米兰3:1巴勒莫:斯内德-埃图奥联手梅开二度
Leonardo won his first trophy as a coach, as Inter lifted the Coppa Italia.
高举意大利杯的国际米兰,为主帅莱昂纳多迎来了执教的第一座奖杯。
Wesley Sneijder was fit to start for Inter, with Yuto Nagatomo at right-back
, and Cristian Chivu on the opposite side.
国际米兰斯内德首发,齐沃和长友佑都分别担任左右后卫。
Delio Rossi used his 4-3-2-1 system. Fabio Liverani was... 阅读全帖
S*********i
发帖数: 8614
42
tp://bbs.goalhi.com/2072384.html
Two goals from Alexandre Pato and another from Antonio Cassano sent Milan
five points clear of Inter.
帕托的两个进球和卡萨诺的锦上添花让米兰领先国米5分。
Max Allegri started Pato and Robinho upfront in Zlatan Ibrahimovic’s
absence. Clarence Seedorf played on the left of midfield, and Gianluca
Zambrotta got a surprise start at left-back.
在伊布拉希莫维奇缺阵的情况下,阿莱格里用帕托和罗比尼奥作为先发锋线。西多夫首
发的位置是左中场,赞布罗塔令人惊讶地作为左后卫先发。
Leonardo chose to play 4-2-1-3 rather than 4-3-1-2. Javier Zanetti played at
left-back,... 阅读全帖
T*********e
发帖数: 39815
43
【 以下文字转载自 Outdoors 讨论区 】
发信人: TrueCabbage (:+), 信区: Outdoors
标 题: [TR] Dragontail Serpentine Arete, Grade IV, 5.8 (zz for zd8
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Mon Aug 4 03:01:31 2008), 转信
Dragontail Serpentine Arete, Grade IV, 5.8 (from zd8848)
Bartosz and I climbed Dragontail via Serpentine Arete on 8/2/2008. It's a 16
-pitch route covering about 2000 vertical feet. It has one or two 5.8
pitches, 3-4 5.7 pitches, a couple of 5.5-5.6 pitches and 8 low 5th class or
4th class pitches.
Our plan is to do a one-day
c*******r
发帖数: 13580
44
来自主题: _Climbing版 - Beta - Super Slab @ Smith Rock
Super slab
Overall: a 3-pitch 5.6 trad route. Super fun and quite long. With some expos
ure and quite a few real 5.6 moves. Not a hard climb, but really a fun one.
Pitch 1:
This is a longer than average pitch but pretty easy. Bring a few small to mi
d sized stoppers or cams. At the end of the pitch you reach a wide ledge wit
h two sets of bolts.
Pitch 2:
It's a low class 5 short traverse to the left. It does have some exposure an
d it's pretty much un-protected. There is one very small flake whe
s****r
发帖数: 31686
45
来自主题: Detective版 - 直升飞机还是挺复杂的
我的也就是40多厘米
长度不是关键, 关键是几个主旋翼。 双旋翼的简单好控制, 单旋翼的固定PITCH 的
较难, 最难是可变主旋翼PITCH, 六个控制频道的
我现在的是固定PITCH。。。 无刷电机, 传动杆驱动的尾舵, 四频道, 前进后退,
左右侧倾, 左右转头, 和旋翼速度。 总重大约六两。
离3D 空中芭蕾六频道 可变PITCH 还远, 郁闷啊。。。
g****t
发帖数: 31659
46
来自主题: Detective版 - 直升飞机还是挺复杂的
我最大那个是单旋翼,然后尾巴有一个浆.它飞得最高.国内带来的.
要充电还要自己插一根线,看上去非常山寨.
其他2个小的双旋翼,20厘米,就是纯toy了.

我的也就是40多厘米
长度不是关键, 关键是几个主旋翼。 双旋翼的简单好控制, 单旋翼的固定PITCH 的
较难, 最难是可变主旋翼PITCH, 六个控制频道的
我现在的是固定PITCH。。。 无刷电机, 传动杆驱动的尾舵, 四频道, 前进后退,
左右侧倾, 左右转头, 和旋翼速度。 总重大约六两。
离3D 空中芭蕾六频道 可变PITCH 还远, 郁闷啊。。。
u***r
发帖数: 4825
47
来自主题: Military版 - 【Economist】Why China fails at football
http://www.economist.com/node/21541716
Why China fails at football
Little red card
The telling reasons why, at least in football, China is unlikely to rule the
world in the near future
Dec 17th 2011 | from the print edition
THE pass back to the goalkeeper seemed routine for Qingdao Hailifeng FC in
its match against Sichuan FC in September 2009, even if the ball was struck
a little too hard and the keeper only just managed to stop it running past
him and into the net. Qingdao was safely ahead 3-0... 阅读全帖
f********4
发帖数: 2883
48
做了一下研究,发现原来所有的所谓脱口秀都是由职业的Writer们写出脚本script,再
由host来演出的。Jimmy Kimmel脱口秀同样有一个职业写手团队,其Co-head Writer为
一白女,看照片和介绍。
想起来多可笑,现在我们中国人还能够说这不过是一个孩子的童言无忌,一个笑话吗。
这是一个刻意的试探,是我们所有的中国人面临的一个严重的考验。
What It's Like to Write For a Late Night Talk Show
http://splitsider.com/2013/10/what-its-like-to-write-for-a-late
Comedy is an industry. For every performer on stage, there are hundreds of
people working behind-the-scenes. These creative and business jobs, which
exist in all disciplines and levels of comedy, collecti... 阅读全帖
S*********g
发帖数: 24893
49
来自主题: Military版 - 聖經神話的前身 (转载)
【 以下文字转载自 WaterWorld 讨论区 】
发信人: StephenKing (金博士), 信区: WaterWorld
标 题: 聖經神話的前身
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Thu Feb 19 09:39:58 2015, 美东)
聖經的部份內容,很可能是從一些比它更歷史久遠的神話演變過來的。聖經創世故事中
很多元素,都能從蘇美爾及巴比倫時代的神話中找到,其中洪水故事甚至在細節及文字
上有很多相同的地方!(請到參閱《聖經故事從何而來?(比較四個神話中的大洪水與歷
史上的大洪水)》)
米索不達米亞Mesopotamia是人類文明最早的發源地,那裡已知的最早的創建者是蘇美
爾民族Sumerian ,約在5000BCE掘起,約2000BCE被Amorites 殲滅,她的文化,包括語
言、神話等,被後來在該地及附近的其他民族繼承起來。
在19世紀,多國的考古學家都在美索不達米亞一帶發掘,出土了很多記有這些民族的神
話故事的雕像與泥板。根據考古學,這些雕像與泥板是約2000BCE-1000BCE時代的產物
。這些不同時期神話,都十分相似,研究的學者都認為後期的神話是從前期的神... 阅读全帖
c*****g
发帖数: 21627
50
【 以下文字转载自 WaterWorld 讨论区 】
发信人: fighter644 (武士), 信区: WaterWorld
标 题: 原来JK脱口秀是由职业writer团队写出脚本的, Co-head Writer为一白女
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Sun Oct 27 15:47:15 2013, 美东)
做了一下研究,发现原来所有的所谓脱口秀都是由职业的Writer们写出脚本script,再
由host来演出的。Jimmy Kimmel脱口秀同样有一个职业写手团队,其Co-head Writer为
一白女,看照片和介绍。
想起来多可笑,现在我们中国人还能够说这不过是一个孩子的童言无忌,一个笑话吗。
这是一个刻意的试探,是我们所有的中国人面临的一个严重的考验。
What It's Like to Write For a Late Night Talk Show
http://splitsider.com/2013/10/what-its-like-to-write-for-a-late
Comedy is an industry. For every performer ... 阅读全帖
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