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发帖数: 69 | 1 Through a friend, I got to climb some brand new sports lines south of
Beijing. There was a super nice long trad line following a crack and they
added 18 new sports routes around on the dolomite faces. When we were
climbing the warm up routes, two brand new routes were being bolted not far
away. The rock face is mostly free of choss and moss. All of lines are
between 80 and 90 feet long, with potentials to extend further up. Existing
lines are mostly in 10-11 range with a few 9 and 12s. However, the
experience was definitely enhanced by the loose rocks of all sizes that
were pulled off all over the place, in both bolting and climbing sessions. &
#160;From time to time rock dust out of the drilling showered the belay
area, which is quite narrow just above a cliff.
The bolters were nice enough to allow me to try the brand new lines on top
rope. One is called 水淹京城 12a, which refers to the recent rain in
beijing that disabled majority of the above and under-ground traffic
systems. The other one was rated 凹凸有致11b. I felt them slightly soft
though I didn't go for a lead so I wouldn't know for sure. But it was
definitely a pleasure to go up lines with almost zero tick marks. I suspect
that the climbs will be easier after they are thoroughly cleaned. No FA yet.
The approach is like 100 minutes drive from the city, 5 minutes walk from
parking. The view is picturesque and the wall is under shade all day long.
The negatives are the narrow belay area and slight goat shit stench. The
developers will bolt maybe dozens more lines so I am not sure the crag is
open yet. I have lots of respect for them after I saw them work firsthand. |
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