c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 1 SAC
8.9mm single rope, amazing |
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 2 mammut最近出了好几个rope deal了
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: SAC
: 8.9mm single rope, amazing
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 3 我买了根galaxy，结果又出了tusk，就把galaxy退了，反正还没运出来。70米的绳子
130，还不错。现在这根52g/m，真轻啊
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: mammut最近出了好几个rope deal了
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 4 嗯，那天sac出tusk的时候，我看70m很快就被抢光了，60m的我就没兴趣买了
这根绳子适合爬alpine rock
8.9是single rope最细的尺寸了
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 我买了根galaxy，结果又出了tusk，就把galaxy退了，反正还没运出来。70米的绳子
: 130，还不错。现在这根52g/m，真轻啊
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 5 我怀疑很多人的想法是买了70m的再说，不需要就剪掉10m
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 嗯，那天sac出tusk的时候，我看70m很快就被抢光了，60m的我就没兴趣买了
: 这根绳子适合爬alpine rock
: 8.9是single rope最细的尺寸了
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 6 70和60一样价格，肯定买70, 呵呵
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 我怀疑很多人的想法是买了70m的再说，不需要就剪掉10m
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 7 那不是还得剪嘛，其实也挺麻烦
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 70和60一样价格，肯定买70, 呵呵
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 8 为啥剪？
glacier travel 70m有点长
alpine rock的话，70还不错，rappel的距离还长了
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 那不是还得剪嘛，其实也挺麻烦
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 9 至少washington的alpine rock路线没有需要70m绳子的，多出的10m没用
70m都是很新的sport route
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 为啥剪？
: glacier travel 70m有点长
: alpine rock的话，70还不错，rappel的距离还长了
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 10 标准设置肯定不需要70m绳子，70m的好处是可以link pitch
尤其是很多路线要自己设gear anchor的，能link可以省不少时间
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 至少washington的alpine rock路线没有需要70m绳子的，多出的10m没用
: 70m都是很新的sport route
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 11 alpine route的问题是，link pitch带来的rope drag一般不值，而且popular路线经常
有人设好了sling做anchor，或者是有piton做anchor
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 标准设置肯定不需要70m绳子，70m的好处是可以link pitch
: 尤其是很多路线要自己设gear anchor的，能link可以省不少时间
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 12 too thin to hang on
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: SAC
: 8.9mm single rope, amazing
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 I guess you didn't read the title of the post.
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: too thin to hang on
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 14 If you don't plan to take falls and hang on it, why bring a rope?
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I guess you didn't read the title of the post.
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 15 My 9.1mm rope slipped through the ATC when it was in auto-block mode when it
was new. Be careful
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I guess you didn't read the title of the post.
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 I use the high friction side of the reverso 3 when I rappel on a thin rope.
Also, extending the rappel helps a LOT with increasing the effectiveness of
autoblock. I have rapped off twin ropes quite a few times with this setting
and felt quite comfortable. ATC is not really designed for modern day thin
ropes. I mostly use it for cragging now.
it
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: My 9.1mm rope slipped through the ATC when it was in auto-block mode when it
: was new. Be careful
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d**p
发帖数: 1800 | |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 18 你不要着急，先用club的绳子就行了。而且在oregon爬alpine rock的机会不多，
cragging不要用这么细的绳子
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: 可惜错过了，现在是奥克莱眼镜了……
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 19 I'm not talking about rappelling. I'm talking about belaying the second
using the auto-block mode of ATC
.
of
setting
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I use the high friction side of the reverso 3 when I rappel on a thin rope.
: Also, extending the rappel helps a LOT with increasing the effectiveness of
: autoblock. I have rapped off twin ropes quite a few times with this setting
: and felt quite comfortable. ATC is not really designed for modern day thin
: ropes. I mostly use it for cragging now.
:
: it
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 20 that's called auto-lock... not auto-block
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I'm not talking about rappelling. I'm talking about belaying the second
: using the auto-block mode of ATC
:
: .
: of
: setting
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 21 ATC is not an autolock belay device. What was the rigging you used? I'm
curious to know.
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: I'm not talking about rappelling. I'm talking about belaying the second
: using the auto-block mode of ATC
:
: .
: of
: setting
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 I guess she used ATC guide, not ATC
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: ATC is not an autolock belay device. What was the rigging you used? I'm
: curious to know.
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 23 Hmm, that's sketchy. It's supposed to work pretty well even with a half rope
. I gotta try it out some time. I never had problems with reverso 3.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: I guess she used ATC guide, not ATC
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 24 it depends
I would say stiff new rope does slip through ATC guide/reverso 3 when using
as auto-lock mode, I even noticed this happened on 9.8mm rope. But as far as
you rig the system right, and never let the brake hand go, it is not a prob
lem.
rope
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: Hmm, that's sketchy. It's supposed to work pretty well even with a half rope
: . I gotta try it out some time. I never had problems with reverso 3.
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 25 my suggestion of using auto lock belay device is after you rig the system, t
est it along the possible falling direction, pull it hard with you hand, see
if the system works properly
a lot of times the auto-lock fails because the falling direction is not righ
t, in which case, the rope to climber's end is not on the top of the rope to
belay's end...
using
as
prob
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: it depends
: I would say stiff new rope does slip through ATC guide/reverso 3 when using
: as auto-lock mode, I even noticed this happened on 9.8mm rope. But as far as
: you rig the system right, and never let the brake hand go, it is not a prob
: lem.
:
: rope
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 26 Sorry it was my reverso 3
rope
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: Hmm, that's sketchy. It's supposed to work pretty well even with a half rope
: . I gotta try it out some time. I never had problems with reverso 3.
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d**p
发帖数: 1800 | 27 cragging一般用多粗的绳子？
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: 你不要着急，先用club的绳子就行了。而且在oregon爬alpine rock的机会不多，
: cragging不要用这么细的绳子
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 28 [9.4] 9.8-10.2 [10.5]
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: cragging一般用多粗的绳子？
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 29 my current cragging rope is a 10.2. It's on the heavy side, but most my
cragging approaches are half hour at most.
【在 d**p 的大作中提到】
: cragging一般用多粗的绳子？
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