q*n
发帖数: 1203 | |
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 2 Terrible. Did he use a biner block?
.
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: 事故原因是single rope rapple, pull string上的结被拉过rapple ring, 太可惜了.
: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1164065&tn=0&mr=0
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 3 no, although he used to do that but not this time, and unfortunetely the
ring was a bigger size than normal. he is from LA btw.
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: Terrible. Did he use a biner block?
:
: .
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 4 What is his name? A few guys I know went to Yosemite last week, but all came
back fine.
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: no, although he used to do that but not this time, and unfortunetely the
: ring was a bigger size than normal. he is from LA btw.
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 5 it's in the the supertopo thread
came
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: What is his name? A few guys I know went to Yosemite last week, but all came
: back fine.
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 6 It is too long to read in English, but I manage to find his name, not from
our club.
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: it's in the the supertopo thread
:
: came
|
b******e
发帖数: 1074 | 7 哇，胆战心惊。。
我前两天还这么下去了，看来下次要小心。。
.
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: 事故原因是single rope rapple, pull string上的结被拉过rapple ring, 太可惜了.
: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1164065&tn=0&mr=0
|
N**D
发帖数: 10322 | 8 太危险了，还是hike加腐败吧，即锻炼了，又解馋，又不会长膘
.
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: 事故原因是single rope rapple, pull string上的结被拉过rapple ring, 太可惜了.
: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1164065&tn=0&mr=0
|
b******e
发帖数: 1074 | 9 是他们做的不safe，和decision有关吧
【在 N**D 的大作中提到】
: 太危险了，还是hike加腐败吧，即锻炼了，又解馋，又不会长膘
:
: .
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 10 This is cheating death in my opinion
【在 b******e 的大作中提到】
: 哇，胆战心惊。。
: 我前两天还这么下去了，看来下次要小心。。
:
: .
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 11 it has little to do with the ring size, I guess. A normal size rap ring
would be easily pulled through with the body weight pressing the knot tight
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: no, although he used to do that but not this time, and unfortunetely the
: ring was a bigger size than normal. he is from LA btw.
|
N**D
发帖数: 10322 | 12 常在河边走，哪有不湿鞋
【在 b******e 的大作中提到】
: 是他们做的不safe，和decision有关吧
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 It was probably more caused by tiredness. That's why I never use their
approach for rappelling. If I need an extra rope, I bring an extra rope. I
like the rappel rig clean and simple and fool proof that everyone can
understand and spot any mistakes.
【在 b******e 的大作中提到】
: 是他们做的不safe，和decision有关吧
|
k**u
发帖数: 10502 | 14 是忘了扣锁，然后绳子被拉过环却没有制动措施，于是自由落体。
惨。 |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 15 Tying the ends of the rap line and retrieve line together would prevent a
free fall all the way to the ground. but that's a lot of hassel and rope
entanglement
【在 k**u 的大作中提到】
: 是忘了扣锁，然后绳子被拉过环却没有制动措施，于是自由落体。
: 惨。
|
k**u
发帖数: 10502 | 16 他使用的单绳下降的机制本身没问题，就是自已漏了操作了。
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: Tying the ends of the rap line and retrieve line together would prevent a
: free fall all the way to the ground. but that's a lot of hassel and rope
: entanglement
|
b******e
发帖数: 1074 | 17 I do not agree with this. Need be careful definitely, but with two figure 8
knots together, it should be fine. But since this accident has happened, I'd
say this way should be abandoned in the future.
tight
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: it has little to do with the ring size, I guess. A normal size rap ring
: would be easily pulled through with the body weight pressing the knot tight
|
q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 18 supertopo上有他partner的报告很详细, 的确是太不幸了, 可能事故都是这样: 几个小
概率事件和貌似too stupid to be possible的错误判断一起作用, 命运就趁虚而入了.
..
* 他喜欢用cinch做下降器, partner只用传统ATC, 多次试图说服无效, 这次甚至带了
个给他在包里但是还是没用
* 他rig了很多次类似的setup都用了backup biner, 从来没有pull through过, 这次唯
一没backup就碰上了稍大的rappel ring pull through了
* 他和partner检查了几次都没注意到没有backup, blocking knot本身没问题, two
overhand knots with 12 inch tails
* 导致事故的最后一击是他在rappel的过程中停了十分钟拍下面pitch leader的照片,
还左右晃动来找角度, 这时结pull through了... :( |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 19 Actually you will be amazed how much a knot can be compressed under weight.
I would never trust a rap ring holding a knot. A knot will not pass a belay
device though.
8
'd
【在 b******e 的大作中提到】
: I do not agree with this. Need be careful definitely, but with two figure 8
: knots together, it should be fine. But since this accident has happened, I'd
: say this way should be abandoned in the future.
:
: tight
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 20 To clarify an important issue: the so called "backup biner" is NOT a backup.
It's your main blockage mechanism. Knots do get pulled through rap rings.
NEVER remove the "backup". If for any reason you don't want to use a biner,
pass the rap line directly through the knot. This will create more friction
when you pull the tag line though. Also, the biner should ALWAYS be a locker
(preferably a twist lock). A non-locking biner could and does get popped
open.
了.
,
【在 q*n 的大作中提到】
: supertopo上有他partner的报告很详细, 的确是太不幸了, 可能事故都是这样: 几个小
: 概率事件和貌似too stupid to be possible的错误判断一起作用, 命运就趁虚而入了.
: ..
: * 他喜欢用cinch做下降器, partner只用传统ATC, 多次试图说服无效, 这次甚至带了
: 个给他在包里但是还是没用
: * 他rig了很多次类似的setup都用了backup biner, 从来没有pull through过, 这次唯
: 一没backup就碰上了稍大的rappel ring pull through了
: * 他和partner检查了几次都没注意到没有backup, blocking knot本身没问题, two
: overhand knots with 12 inch tails
: * 导致事故的最后一击是他在rappel的过程中停了十分钟拍下面pitch leader的照片,
|
