b***y
发帖数: 824 | 1 Climber leader made a wise decision to cancel the alpine climb due to AV
danger. We head back to Mazama Rock this weekend. Following Rotatezh's steps
, went on to Prime Rib.
11 pitches up: 5.5 hours. Down with endless rappels: 3.5 hours. 10 hours car
to car.
Led 6 pitches, LD led 5. Mostly 5.6, 5.7 moves, 1 pitch sustained 5.8+, last
pitch solid 5.9
6, 7th pitch can be linked if bring enough draws or skipped bolts
9, 10th pitch can be linked if using a double before turning 120 degree
8, 9, 10th |
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 2 Nice, hope I can grab someone to there someday. |
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 3 Sounds really fun! Someone told me that PNW has some 20+ pitch sport route.
Is that true?
steps
car
last
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Climber leader made a wise decision to cancel the alpine climb due to AV
: danger. We head back to Mazama Rock this weekend. Following Rotatezh's steps
: , went on to Prime Rib.
: 11 pitches up: 5.5 hours. Down with endless rappels: 3.5 hours. 10 hours car
: to car.
: Led 6 pitches, LD led 5. Mostly 5.6, 5.7 moves, 1 pitch sustained 5.8+, last
: pitch solid 5.9
: 6, 7th pitch can be linked if bring enough draws or skipped bolts
: 9, 10th pitch can be linked if using a double before turning 120 degree
: 8, 9, 10th
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 4 nice report, 11 pitches for 10 hours....emmm...I got to re-think my plan
then...
steps
car
last
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Climber leader made a wise decision to cancel the alpine climb due to AV
: danger. We head back to Mazama Rock this weekend. Following Rotatezh's steps
: , went on to Prime Rib.
: 11 pitches up: 5.5 hours. Down with endless rappels: 3.5 hours. 10 hours car
: to car.
: Led 6 pitches, LD led 5. Mostly 5.6, 5.7 moves, 1 pitch sustained 5.8+, last
: pitch solid 5.9
: 6, 7th pitch can be linked if bring enough draws or skipped bolts
: 9, 10th pitch can be linked if using a double before turning 120 degree
: 8, 9, 10th
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 5 what's your plan?
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: nice report, 11 pitches for 10 hours....emmm...I got to re-think my plan
: then...
:
: steps
: car
: last
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 6 Royal Arches
and/or
Half Dome Snake Dike
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: what's your plan?
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 7 Royal Arches is a really tight one-day climb. You've got to simul for quite
a bit. Fortunately a good proportion of the route is 4th class. As Alex told
me. You can ask him for additional beta.
You cannot compare sports to trad, also.
As for the experience of my climbing partner, the crux of Snake Dike is
finding the climb. He got lost three times trying to locate it. Bring some
extra beta with you.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: Royal Arches
: and/or
: Half Dome Snake Dike
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 8 Thanks, neither me nor my partner is a good route finder.....sweat...
So, what's yours plan?
btw, due to my paper issue, I have to be there after July 10th.
quite
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: Royal Arches is a really tight one-day climb. You've got to simul for quite
: a bit. Fortunately a good proportion of the route is 4th class. As Alex told
: me. You can ask him for additional beta.
: You cannot compare sports to trad, also.
: As for the experience of my climbing partner, the crux of Snake Dike is
: finding the climb. He got lost three times trying to locate it. Bring some
: extra beta with you.
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 9 Do some good research online, and print out some pictures for the route.
Sometimes I even print out picture for every pitch.
I haven't decided yet. I'll be pretty buzy by the end of Jul though.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: Thanks, neither me nor my partner is a good route finder.....sweat...
: So, what's yours plan?
: btw, due to my paper issue, I have to be there after July 10th.
:
: quite
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 10 possible to link more pitches with a 70m rope?
and did you find rotatezh's rock shoe? lol
steps
car
last
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Climber leader made a wise decision to cancel the alpine climb due to AV
: danger. We head back to Mazama Rock this weekend. Following Rotatezh's steps
: , went on to Prime Rib.
: 11 pitches up: 5.5 hours. Down with endless rappels: 3.5 hours. 10 hours car
: to car.
: Led 6 pitches, LD led 5. Mostly 5.6, 5.7 moves, 1 pitch sustained 5.8+, last
: pitch solid 5.9
: 6, 7th pitch can be linked if bring enough draws or skipped bolts
: 9, 10th pitch can be linked if using a double before turning 120 degree
: 8, 9, 10th
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 11 royal arches is 16 pitches of trad. it'd a very very long day. my word of
advice if you haven't climbed multi pitch before: climb some shorter routes
with your partner and get familiar with each other. time yourself. I wouldn'
t try royal arches in one day if I can't do a half rope 5.7 pitch with my
partner in less than 30 minutes, everything included. you can probably get
away with being a little slower, but that's just how much safety margin I
leave. North Dome gully is notorious for route fin
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: Royal Arches
: and/or
: Half Dome Snake Dike
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 12 2008 news: free solo accident on this route
In a terrible tragedy, and as a great loss to Mazama climbing as well as the
community at large, Ryan Triplett lost his life when he fell while free-
soloing "Prime Rib" on Goat Wall. I will have more to post on Ryan later,
but for now, this piece by his good friend Patrick O'Donnell pays better
tribute than I can:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=672814&tn=0#msg672814 |
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 13 Well, I have several 3-4 pitches trad experience, however, as you mentioned,
I and my partner might not efficient enough to do each pitch in 30 minutes
that is why I said I shall re-think the plan...
As to descent in dark, I don't mind, :), actually, I quite enjoy it. Just my
partner might not think so...
routes
wouldn'
want
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: royal arches is 16 pitches of trad. it'd a very very long day. my word of
: advice if you haven't climbed multi pitch before: climb some shorter routes
: with your partner and get familiar with each other. time yourself. I wouldn'
: t try royal arches in one day if I can't do a half rope 5.7 pitch with my
: partner in less than 30 minutes, everything included. you can probably get
: away with being a little slower, but that's just how much safety margin I
: leave. North Dome gully is notorious for route fin
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14 you are a very brave man
mentioned,
minutes
my
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: Well, I have several 3-4 pitches trad experience, however, as you mentioned,
: I and my partner might not efficient enough to do each pitch in 30 minutes
: that is why I said I shall re-think the plan...
: As to descent in dark, I don't mind, :), actually, I quite enjoy it. Just my
: partner might not think so...
:
: routes
: wouldn'
: want
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 15 I'm not a fan of rappeling in dark, especially long pitches. Feels getting
dumber and
dumber with rappel after rappel on Saturday. The head is just getting empty.
Made few mistakes. Luckly LD and I were reminding/checking each other for
every small things. Rappelling is purely device dependant, no backup. Small
mistake has fatal consequence.
mentioned,
minutes
my
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: Well, I have several 3-4 pitches trad experience, however, as you mentioned,
: I and my partner might not efficient enough to do each pitch in 30 minutes
: that is why I said I shall re-think the plan...
: As to descent in dark, I don't mind, :), actually, I quite enjoy it. Just my
: partner might not think so...
:
: routes
: wouldn'
: want
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 When we rapped off solar slab (god knows how many raps, must be at least 13)
, jack had a near miss. At one point he was not connected to the anchor at
all. Luckily we immediately realized. That scared the crap out of me.
empty.
Small
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: I'm not a fan of rappeling in dark, especially long pitches. Feels getting
: dumber and
: dumber with rappel after rappel on Saturday. The head is just getting empty.
: Made few mistakes. Luckly LD and I were reminding/checking each other for
: every small things. Rappelling is purely device dependant, no backup. Small
: mistake has fatal consequence.
:
: mentioned,
: minutes
: my
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 17 What did tigershead means two rope teams? Means you can connect two ropes
together and have fewer rappel?
hat about two cars? You can use a different route to rappel? |
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 18
empty.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I felt exactly the same
rappelling down in dark!! Don't want to do it any more. I caught my hair,
tangled the rope...Even my partner noticed that I was getting dizzy
Small
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: I'm not a fan of rappeling in dark, especially long pitches. Feels getting
: dumber and
: dumber with rappel after rappel on Saturday. The head is just getting empty.
: Made few mistakes. Luckly LD and I were reminding/checking each other for
: every small things. Rappelling is purely device dependant, no backup. Small
: mistake has fatal consequence.
:
: mentioned,
: minutes
: my
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 19 Gosh, exactly the same thing happened to us on Solar Slab!! We made a
mistake on rope management with three people and a pair of half rope. And
for a while the belayer noticed that she wasn't anchor to anything at all!
We noticed this before the leader placed the first piece of gear. If any of
them fell, I would have to run out for rescue since both of them would be
stuck in the chimney below.
It scared the crap out of us.
When we rapped off solar slab (god knows how many raps, must be at least
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: When we rapped off solar slab (god knows how many raps, must be at least 13)
: , jack had a near miss. At one point he was not connected to the anchor at
: all. Luckily we immediately realized. That scared the crap out of me.
:
: empty.
: Small
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 20 At one point, LD is off rappel and not anchored in. She walked on the ledge
to pull the rope. That's a scary moment.
Prime rib can be walked down from the top, though you need a second car to
park at a different trailhead, 30-40 minutes driving. Way better than those
endless rappels. |
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 21 That's what I read from some TRs. I'd very much prefer the walk off (drive
off) option than rappeling. Is it possible to shuttle two mountain bikes on
the top? Would that be easier than rappeling?
ledge
those
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: At one point, LD is off rappel and not anchored in. She walked on the ledge
: to pull the rope. That's a scary moment.
: Prime rib can be walked down from the top, though you need a second car to
: park at a different trailhead, 30-40 minutes driving. Way better than those
: endless rappels.
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 I like the idea of mountain bike
lol
btw: how was the weather at Leavenworth yesterday?
on
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: That's what I read from some TRs. I'd very much prefer the walk off (drive
: off) option than rappeling. Is it possible to shuttle two mountain bikes on
: the top? Would that be easier than rappeling?
:
: ledge
: those
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 23 Now I almost always use autoblock when rappeling except at single pitch
crags. It probably slows me down 10 seconds per rappel, but I think it's
well worth it.
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: Gosh, exactly the same thing happened to us on Solar Slab!! We made a
: mistake on rope management with three people and a pair of half rope. And
: for a while the belayer noticed that she wasn't anchor to anything at all!
: We noticed this before the leader placed the first piece of gear. If any of
: them fell, I would have to run out for rescue since both of them would be
: stuck in the chimney below.
: It scared the crap out of us.
:
: When we rapped off solar slab (god knows how many raps, must be at least
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 24 it stopped raining around noon but the rock was never dry enough. we ended
up building at least 20 anchors at a crag. after that, we checked a route at
castle rock that I wanted to do but it was still pretty wet. and I didn't
want to lead a wet 5.8.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: I like the idea of mountain bike
: lol
: btw: how was the weather at Leavenworth yesterday?
:
: on
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 25 No, I guess nobody wants to lead wet 5.8, too crazy...
but it's well worth to check the condition there, not adding a lot of drivin
g for you.
at
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: it stopped raining around noon but the rock was never dry enough. we ended
: up building at least 20 anchors at a crag. after that, we checked a route at
: castle rock that I wanted to do but it was still pretty wet. and I didn't
: want to lead a wet 5.8.
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 26 all the anchor building pratice was good for a rainy day, I think.
drivin
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: No, I guess nobody wants to lead wet 5.8, too crazy...
: but it's well worth to check the condition there, not adding a lot of drivin
: g for you.
:
: at
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 27 Rope is not a issue. Too many bolts for a short pitch is, :)
It's really a beginner friendly route. Almost every 5.8 move has a bolt
protecting it.
Most belay station bolts are seperate than the Rapel station rings.
70m almost no use as need scramble between several pitches. To link them,
you need 140m rope, :)
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: possible to link more pitches with a 70m rope?
: and did you find rotatezh's rock shoe? lol
:
: steps
: car
: last
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 28 lol. I like over protected routes, much better than runout routes.
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Rope is not a issue. Too many bolts for a short pitch is, :)
: It's really a beginner friendly route. Almost every 5.8 move has a bolt
: protecting it.
: Most belay station bolts are seperate than the Rapel station rings.
: 70m almost no use as need scramble between several pitches. To link them,
: you need 140m rope, :)
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 29 10+ pitch of sports routes sound awesome. Great way to get your shit
together before climb bigger routes.
.
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: Sounds really fun! Someone told me that PNW has some 20+ pitch sport route.
: Is that true?
:
: steps
: car
: last
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 30 Didn't see this post till now. Yes, there is a 23 pitch sport route called
Infinite Bliss, crux being 5.10c, the 19th pitch. 21st pitch is a 10a. The
rest pitches are moderate.
If you are willing to lead the crux pitch, we may give it a try, but
definitely not this season. I have led a few 5.10 sport routes, but doing it
after 20 pitches is a whole different story.
.
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: Sounds really fun! Someone told me that PNW has some 20+ pitch sport route.
: Is that true?
:
: steps
: car
: last
|
|
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 31 If it is just a few 10c moves, and the rest are 5.9 and under, sure I can
lead it, even at the 19th pitch.
If it is sustained half-pitch 10c, I'm not there yet, or I'll only lead it
if it will be absolutely clean falls.
it
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: Didn't see this post till now. Yes, there is a 23 pitch sport route called
: Infinite Bliss, crux being 5.10c, the 19th pitch. 21st pitch is a 10a. The
: rest pitches are moderate.
: If you are willing to lead the crux pitch, we may give it a try, but
: definitely not this season. I have led a few 5.10 sport routes, but doing it
: after 20 pitches is a whole different story.
:
: .
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 32 I know, that's why we are not in the same league.
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: If it is just a few 10c moves, and the rest are 5.9 and under, sure I can
: lead it, even at the 19th pitch.
: If it is sustained half-pitch 10c, I'm not there yet, or I'll only lead it
: if it will be absolutely clean falls.
:
: it
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 33 Sounds like a truely tough pitch:
http://www.alpinedave.com/garfield/infinite_bliss.htm
The crux pitch (20th) is next and climbs an impressively steep wall. At
almost a full 60 meters, this is a truly challenging pitch for "only" being
5.10. Even with 17 draws, he had needed to back clean a couple to have
enough for the full pitch. |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 34 sounds like a french free pitch to me then, hehe
being
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Sounds like a truely tough pitch:
: http://www.alpinedave.com/garfield/infinite_bliss.htm
: The crux pitch (20th) is next and climbs an impressively steep wall. At
: almost a full 60 meters, this is a truly challenging pitch for "only" being
: 5.10. Even with 17 draws, he had needed to back clean a couple to have
: enough for the full pitch.
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 35 sounds tough to me. A full-rope lengh consistant 5.10 is HARD...A friend
from the Seattle area offered to do this one with me but with him no better
than I do, I doubt we're ready at this point.
being
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Sounds like a truely tough pitch:
: http://www.alpinedave.com/garfield/infinite_bliss.htm
: The crux pitch (20th) is next and climbs an impressively steep wall. At
: almost a full 60 meters, this is a truly challenging pitch for "only" being
: 5.10. Even with 17 draws, he had needed to back clean a couple to have
: enough for the full pitch.
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 36 Is it Bartek? He made an attempt last Sun and bailed at pitch 15 due to late
start and water on the route condition.
better
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: sounds tough to me. A full-rope lengh consistant 5.10 is HARD...A friend
: from the Seattle area offered to do this one with me but with him no better
: than I do, I doubt we're ready at this point.
:
: being
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 37 BTW: just got route topo and detail trip report for IB. Ping me if want a
copy. |
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 38 No. It's a Michigan friend who just moved to Seattle.
late
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Is it Bartek? He made an attempt last Sun and bailed at pitch 15 due to late
: start and water on the route condition.
:
: better
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 39 Sure it dosen't need gear? Why I'm reading 5.6 2 bolts for 120ft?
And 5.2 for 140 ft with 0 bolts? That's why you can finish 23 pitches in one
day. You're free-soloing for the most part. It's really an alpine sports
route.
being
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: Sounds like a truely tough pitch:
: http://www.alpinedave.com/garfield/infinite_bliss.htm
: The crux pitch (20th) is next and climbs an impressively steep wall. At
: almost a full 60 meters, this is a truly challenging pitch for "only" being
: 5.10. Even with 17 draws, he had needed to back clean a couple to have
: enough for the full pitch.
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 40 I have read some TRs. They put in cams here and there. I wouldn't run out a
5.6 like that. It's insane.
one
【在 p**********t 的大作中提到】
: Sure it dosen't need gear? Why I'm reading 5.6 2 bolts for 120ft?
: And 5.2 for 140 ft with 0 bolts? That's why you can finish 23 pitches in one
: day. You're free-soloing for the most part. It's really an alpine sports
: route.
:
: being
|
|
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 41 What I read is that they carry several small cams, not a full rack. And most
5.8 or lower pitches they simulclimb + skip / back clean bolts with 30
draws in order to finish it in one day.
【 在 cookiejar (饼干桶) 的大作中提到: 】
a |
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 42 To finish it on one day, you basically have to do 20 minutes per pitch. That
is very fast, even for a bolt/gear mixed route.
I once climbed Catapult with Loni in 1 hour and it was a death march, with
no time to breath.
most
【在 b***y 的大作中提到】
: What I read is that they carry several small cams, not a full rack. And most
: 5.8 or lower pitches they simulclimb + skip / back clean bolts with 30
: draws in order to finish it in one day.
: 【 在 cookiejar (饼干桶) 的大作中提到: 】
: a
|
