b******e
发帖数: 1074 | 1 有个Climbing的记录片，17pitch,
那个free climbing的时候，悬空往上爬，好奇绳子怎么抛上去并
固定住的？有谁可以explain一下吗？ |
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 2 没看懂你的问题
啥叫绳子怎么抛上去并固定住？ 难道不是有人lead上去的？
【在 b******e 的大作中提到】
: 有个Climbing的记录片，17pitch,
: 那个free climbing的时候，悬空往上爬，好奇绳子怎么抛上去并
: 固定住的？有谁可以explain一下吗？
|
b******e
发帖数: 1074 | 3 木看到有 人lead...
正是问的这个
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 没看懂你的问题
: 啥叫绳子怎么抛上去并固定住？ 难道不是有人lead上去的？
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 4 没看这个电影
但是，绳子不可能凭空在路线上
或者是自己人lead上去，fix了rope，可能这个过程没给你表述
或者，是前人留下了绳子
【在 b******e 的大作中提到】
: 木看到有 人lead...
: 正是问的这个
|
b******e
发帖数: 1074 | 5 doesn't seem so, but maybe yeah, they did not show it..
http://www.banffcentre.ca/mountainfestival/competitions/film/20
BEST FILM ON CLIMBING
sponsored by the Alpine Club of Canada · $2,000
The Asgard Project
Director/Producer: Alastair Lee
Production Company: Posing Productions (UK)
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 没看这个电影
: 但是，绳子不可能凭空在路线上
: 或者是自己人lead上去，fix了rope，可能这个过程没给你表述
: 或者，是前人留下了绳子
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 6 fix了rope就不是"free climbing"
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 没看这个电影
: 但是，绳子不可能凭空在路线上
: 或者是自己人lead上去，fix了rope，可能这个过程没给你表述
: 或者，是前人留下了绳子
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 7 why?
As far as you only use fixed rope for protection, it is free climbing
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: fix了rope就不是"free climbing"
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 I don't think it can still be called free climbing in most people's
definition. I haven't done any survey though. My understanding is that
someone in your party has to lead it. TR is not free climbing. I could be
wrong.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: why?
: As far as you only use fixed rope for protection, it is free climbing
|
b***y
发帖数: 824 | 9 The fixed rope might be used for camera crew, not the climbing party. |
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 10 Free climbing is a word compared to aid climbing, in which you use aiders/as
cenders (like thing) or pulling on gears. As far as you only use rope for pr
otection, it is free climbing. Fixed rope by your group or others, doesn't m
atter.
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: I don't think it can still be called free climbing in most people's
: definition. I haven't done any survey though. My understanding is that
: someone in your party has to lead it. TR is not free climbing. I could be
: wrong.
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 11 my line of reasoning is that you don't really know if you have weighted the
top rope. if you have taken a fall, you can't claim a free ascent of a route
. following the same logic, a TR ascent
shouldn't count as a free ascent.
as
pr
m
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: Free climbing is a word compared to aid climbing, in which you use aiders/as
: cenders (like thing) or pulling on gears. As far as you only use rope for pr
: otection, it is free climbing. Fixed rope by your group or others, doesn't m
: atter.
|
a*****s
发帖数: 838 | 12 我看了这个电影，根据我的印象，
是有人lead了，但是下面的人是自己用grigri上去的。
所以看起来比较怪。因为是self-belay。
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 没看这个电影
: 但是，绳子不可能凭空在路线上
: 或者是自己人lead上去，fix了rope，可能这个过程没给你表述
: 或者，是前人留下了绳子
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 13 Using fixed rope as protection doesn't mean you put your weight on the rope.
The rope can be purely used for protection. In lead-belay paradigm, the fol
lower also has the rope above, does that mean the follower can not claim a f
ree climb?
I don't see in terms of free climb, there is critical difference between fix
ed rope protection and pitch-belay protection.
Of course, if the team does not need to lead and can take the advantage of f
ixed ropes left by previous group, the climb can be much easier, but stil
l, it can be free climb.
the
route
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: my line of reasoning is that you don't really know if you have weighted the
: top rope. if you have taken a fall, you can't claim a free ascent of a route
: . following the same logic, a TR ascent
: shouldn't count as a free ascent.
:
: as
: pr
: m
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 14 If only one grigri is used, nothing else, that should be self-belay.
【在 a*****s 的大作中提到】
: 我看了这个电影，根据我的印象，
: 是有人lead了，但是下面的人是自己用grigri上去的。
: 所以看起来比较怪。因为是self-belay。
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 15
rope.
fol
f
Yes, that's my understanding. You can claim a free ascent as a team, not as
individuals. That being said, I don't really care claiming free ascents. At
my level of climbing, it's all just about having fun.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: Using fixed rope as protection doesn't mean you put your weight on the rope.
: The rope can be purely used for protection. In lead-belay paradigm, the fol
: lower also has the rope above, does that mean the follower can not claim a f
: ree climb?
: I don't see in terms of free climb, there is critical difference between fix
: ed rope protection and pitch-belay protection.
: Of course, if the team does not need to lead and can take the advantage of f
: ixed ropes left by previous group, the climb can be much easier, but stil
: l, it can be free climb.
:
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 16 Well, I think we are talking about the team.
In terms of free ascent as individuals by your definition, either you have t
o lead, or you have to free solo.
Yep, we don't care about that claim, it is all about having fun and being sa
fe.
as
At
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
:
: rope.
: fol
: f
: Yes, that's my understanding. You can claim a free ascent as a team, not as
: individuals. That being said, I don't really care claiming free ascents. At
: my level of climbing, it's all just about having fun.
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17
t
Yes, that's my understanding of free ascent of a single pitch route. only
leading counts, following doesn't. I don't know if that's the concensus. Nor
do I care. it's just for the sake of argument.
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: Well, I think we are talking about the team.
: In terms of free ascent as individuals by your definition, either you have t
: o lead, or you have to free solo.
: Yep, we don't care about that claim, it is all about having fun and being sa
: fe.
:
: as
: At
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 18 if you are talking about the asgard project, then:
1. they aided
2. they used ascenders (NOT grigri) to climb up the rope which was set up by
someone in the team (most of the time Leo; it seems he led most of the
pitches)
【在 b******e 的大作中提到】
: 有个Climbing的记录片，17pitch,
: 那个free climbing的时候，悬空往上爬，好奇绳子怎么抛上去并
: 固定住的？有谁可以explain一下吗？
|
b******e
发帖数: 1074 | 19 free ascent yes, as these guys just jump off the top with
flying device and parachute, which is another awesome thing
about this film
t
sa
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: Well, I think we are talking about the team.
: In terms of free ascent as individuals by your definition, either you have t
: o lead, or you have to free solo.
: Yep, we don't care about that claim, it is all about having fun and being sa
: fe.
:
: as
: At
|
l*****e
发帖数: 494 | 20 这种飞下来的很漂亮。以前看过一个片段，可是现在找不到啦
噢，找到了，是饼干桶贴过的
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pC2eOl4f23Q&feature=player_embed
【在 b******e 的大作中提到】
: free ascent yes, as these guys just jump off the top with
: flying device and parachute, which is another awesome thing
: about this film
:
: t
: sa
|
|
|
z*******y
发帖数: 126 | 21 Some misunderstandings among you guys.
First, this is big-wall climbing. Leo Houlding group lead the climbing by
themselves, and fixed the rope to the anchor where they reached in each day,
then rappel to basecamp. ( wherever there is bad weather people always
do this)
Then use ascender to get on the rope set by themselves to the point reached
in previous day, then free climb again. This is called "Jumar" technique.
Finally, "free climbing" is something just different from aid-climbing. When
climbing climber does not use any gear to help them climb easier or faster
essentially. Protection is not the case since it just saves your life
instead of making the climb easier |
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 22 what you said is mis-leading
Leo's team summitted asgard, but it's NOT a free ascent b/c they aided on
some pitches
day,
reached
When
faster
【在 z*******y 的大作中提到】
: Some misunderstandings among you guys.
: First, this is big-wall climbing. Leo Houlding group lead the climbing by
: themselves, and fixed the rope to the anchor where they reached in each day,
: then rappel to basecamp. ( wherever there is bad weather people always
: do this)
: Then use ascender to get on the rope set by themselves to the point reached
: in previous day, then free climb again. This is called "Jumar" technique.
: Finally, "free climbing" is something just different from aid-climbing. When
: climbing climber does not use any gear to help them climb easier or faster
: essentially. Protection is not the case since it just saves your life
|
S********g
发帖数: 922 | 23 嗯。没看到video。Leo是不是在free一个以前的aid climb？是的话，他们都是一个一
个pitch free的（难的话）。天气不好，爬不下去啥的就回base。first ascent也经常
这么搞得。这和一般人climb big wall不一样。一般人不会fix那么多rope，也不回
base，除非bail。big wall，大部分follower一般都jumar的吧，所以ascend rope也是
基本technique了。。。。
day,
reached
When
faster
【在 z*******y 的大作中提到】
: Some misunderstandings among you guys.
: First, this is big-wall climbing. Leo Houlding group lead the climbing by
: themselves, and fixed the rope to the anchor where they reached in each day,
: then rappel to basecamp. ( wherever there is bad weather people always
: do this)
: Then use ascender to get on the rope set by themselves to the point reached
: in previous day, then free climb again. This is called "Jumar" technique.
: Finally, "free climbing" is something just different from aid-climbing. When
: climbing climber does not use any gear to help them climb easier or faster
: essentially. Protection is not the case since it just saves your life
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 24
This depends on how big the wall is. For a small big wall, say, less than 10
pitches, most teams can do in two days, they would fix the rope and come
down on day 1. Even for bigger walls, some people choose to come down on the
first night. It saves a whole day's supplies to haul and speeds things up a
lot.
【在 S********g 的大作中提到】
: 嗯。没看到video。Leo是不是在free一个以前的aid climb？是的话，他们都是一个一
: 个pitch free的（难的话）。天气不好，爬不下去啥的就回base。first ascent也经常
: 这么搞得。这和一般人climb big wall不一样。一般人不会fix那么多rope，也不回
: base，除非bail。big wall，大部分follower一般都jumar的吧，所以ascend rope也是
: 基本technique了。。。。
:
: day,
: reached
: When
: faster
|
