c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 1 atc guide? that's the counterpart of reverso in BD camp |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 我的感觉是绳子细(9.5 and under)的时候reverso 3好用 |
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j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 3 Reverso 3涩，攀冰的时候绳子上结了冰又不好用了,上方保护时更是累人。
我有收集belay devices的爱好，有十几个，从综合表现来比较，最好的是 BD ATC
guide. |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 4 比reverso重很多，而且感觉材料是生铁的。
能感觉到reverso的确是铝，轻多了。
沟槽的确比reverso宽很多。和reverso正好互补。
粗绳子用atc guide，细绳子用reverso。
belay的时候比reverso smooth多了。
reverso摩擦力太大，只有一个非常窄的特定角度才smooth。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 5 嗯,reverso 3也不错.
与其纠结guide还是reverso 3,不如先继续用我的ATC |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 6 I assume you are talking about the belay biner.
I have a bunch of vaperlocks. They are a bit too small for munter hitches.
They don't work too well with reverso 3, which is the belay device I use for
multipitch cragging. A great lightweight biner for belaying is Petzl
Attache 3D. 50g and enough bearing surface for munter and reverso. it's a
little pricy though.
Vaporlock或DMM Sentinel这样的小 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 7 描述上说"a large eyelet combined with a sling permits controlled feeding"，
我怀疑是不是必须要用sling才能release? reverso 3只要用个biner就能撬。以前版本
的reverso也是得用sling |
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c**i
发帖数: 6973 | 9 (1) Niall Ferguson, In China's Orbit; After 500 years of Western
predominance, Niall Ferguson argues, the world is tilting back to the East.
Wall Street JOurnal, Nov. 18, 2010.
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704104104575622531909154228.html
My comment:
(a) The essay states,"Per capita gross domestic product, they show,
stagnated in the Ming era (1402-1626) and was significantly lower than that
of pre-industrial Britain."
List of regions by past GDP (PPP) per capita
http://en.wikip... 阅读全帖 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 12
nothing special.
7mm would be twin, for sure. I would not trust a lead fall on it. even when
it's doubled, it's effectively a 9.8mm
Smallest I have used with a belay device is 7.7, with a reverso 3, high
friction mode. It's quite sketchy |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 I use 10.2 rope with ATC and reverso 3. |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 14 新手用9.5的绳子怎么样?
感觉reverso用10.2的rappelling的时候太慢,虽然belay的时候不用力气.
感觉以后10.2的绳子用的多了,更fuzzy,rappelling更痛苦.
dynamics
Three |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 15 Neutrino is good for racking Cams, especially C4 since the color coding
matches :) I have a bunch of Neutrinos that I use for spare non-locking
biners.
All my alpine draws use BD Oz, Camp Nano, and Mammut Moses. They are all
good. Camp Nano is a bit small though.
Rocklock is perfect for the main locker for its lightness, reasonably big
size, and roundness (I use reverso 3 with rock lock, so roundness is
important). mini is good for building anchors because it's big enough for
clove/munter hitche |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 I use grigri for sport climbing now. It doesn't have any sharp edges. I
belay my second with a reverso 3 exclusively, it doesn't have sharp edges
when it's in autolock mode. When I belay a leader on an alpine climb, they
shouldn't take a fall :), so I am good.
althoug |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 17 my reverso 3 is still good on high friction side, that why I don't worry
about it now. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 19 great. it's on my toy list now :D
Can't believe my reverso 3 is so worn out after one season. I might need to
retire it after another 2 seasons. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 20 hoho，你是不是也发现reverso磨损的还挺厉害
其实HFM那边还好，LFM那边我基本不打算用了
ATC guide还是比较耐磨的
to |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 21 这个不是特别清楚，因为能够看到那个release hole
我知道BD guide可以用sling release，也可以用biner release，reverso 3也是
如果Vader Apline只能用sling release的话，会有些不灵活，不过也不是太大的问题，
毕竟需要release的情况太少了，目前我还没遇到过。 真用到了，girth hitch一个sli
ng就行了 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 22 I use the high friction side of the reverso 3 when I rappel on a thin rope.
Also, extending the rappel helps a LOT with increasing the effectiveness of
autoblock. I have rapped off twin ropes quite a few times with this setting
and felt quite comfortable. ATC is not really designed for modern day thin
ropes. I mostly use it for cragging now.
it |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 23 Hmm, that's sketchy. It's supposed to work pretty well even with a half rope
. I gotta try it out some time. I never had problems with reverso 3. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 24 it depends
I would say stiff new rope does slip through ATC guide/reverso 3 when using
as auto-lock mode, I even noticed this happened on 9.8mm rope. But as far as
you rig the system right, and never let the brake hand go, it is not a prob
lem.
rope |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 25 Sorry it was my reverso 3
rope |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 26 I have one too. It's on the heavy side but I use it for cragging only. One
small concern is that it's a little fat for Reverso 3. |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 27 ft，看来还得更细点。我的也是reverso 3 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 28 If you end up doing multi pitch trad route, investing $30 on another device
is no big deal considerng how much you spend on the rack. ATC is the most
versatile device and I truely believe it should be on the rack of every
climber: alpine, cragger, or sport.
When I climb trad multi pitch, I exclusively belay with a petzl reverso 3,
and use autolock 90% of the time.
When I climb alpine rock, I always use an ATC.
When I climb at a sport crag, I usually bring an ATC and a Grigri.
guide |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 29 发现如果toprop在上面没有twist的时候，放belay挺smooth的。
如果绳子在上面有交叉，放belay就一顿一顿的。
是不是如果绳子在上面有交叉，不用groove是不是会好点？ |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 32 就是toproping上面的大铁柱，
一般绳子都在上面绕一圈。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 33 嗯，绕一圈是为了增大阻力的
你要是觉得用reveral 3的HFM阻力太大，就用另一侧 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 36 ATC XP?
what is BD ATP? |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 37 I would guess a plain ATC |
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j*********r
发帖数: 654 | 38 Sorry for the typo.
我想说的是BD ATC XP或者BD ATC guide要比Petzl reverso3好用很多。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 39 BD ATC guide 确实比 reversal 3 smooth一些，尤其是在fat rope上
用reversal 3的时候一定要用横截面是圆形的biner，否则阻力更大 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 40 绳子蹦出来倒也没啥，就是不够smooth
只要保持住belay方向别危险就行了
不过reverso 3用粗绳子的时候是很别扭，怎么也都smooth不了 |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 41 对。估计方向不对还能增加摩擦力呢。
其实我用reverso也不是方向不对，
而是，carabiner和belay device，还有harness的链接，有些扭曲。
用力气的时候，他们再绷直，反扭曲，绳子就可以能蹦出来。
开始注意不扭曲，直接绷直，绳子就啥事没有，一直在groove里。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 43 the friction is determined by a lot of factors. diameter is one, the
slickness of the sheath if somewhat more important. I have used many
different ropes. My experience is that anything > 9mm is plenty good for ATC
, even for catching lead falls. if you are really worried, wear gloves, and/
or use an ATC guide/petzl reverso. they have tons of friction. I have even
used 8.5mm half rope with an ATC and I have no complaint. |
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e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 44 看到SAC上有black diamnod 的ATC，才8块多。
想到partner抱怨过reverso 摩擦力太大，belay的时候不smooth。
就想买一个。户外爬真石头的时候一个够不够？
ft，现在没了。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 45 is that a reverso 4? nice. |
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G***o
发帖数: 5158 | 46 On one of the Monday night practices, someone suggested to me that I might have
to belay some heavy people, and a reverso might be easier. So I got one. |
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s*******b
发帖数: 502 | 47 JL的Reverso是很值得拥有的一款。
个人不喜欢Relox，因为感觉大多是是金子和钻石把价格弄上去的，但保值的话还不错
，在国内特别受欢迎。 |
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E**********T
发帖数: 7949 | 48 我CHEAP...;.
Jaeger-LeCoultre 的 REVERSO DUETTO 挺好的。。。。一块儿表的价钱等于买了2块表
……
一面白天上学上班带， 一面儿还能 凑合出席个啥伪正式场合……
谁叫咱穷的哪…………55555 |
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j****2
发帖数: 3211 | 49 for this price range the most reliable one would be Rolex- lady dayjust.
there are all kinds of them you can custom order.
although Rolex is not the a truely luxary watch brand, because the mass
productive, but I have to admit that Rolex has the most sucessful marketing.
Or if you appreciate the watch movement, you can go for JL-reverso-lady, it'
s less popular watch but you gotta appreciate the movement, JL is a much
better brand than Rolex.
But due to JL's delicate movement, is not recommended... 阅读全帖 |
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j**********e
发帖数: 1615 | 50 jaeger reverso is just as easy to recognize. signature design.
i dont think you can say jaeger has a better movement than rolex. they two
are quite different. rolex doesn't make any real complex movement anymore,
as far as i know. but the durability and accuracy are well established, one
of the best.
marketing.
it'
so, |
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