c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 1 有8个是dedicated cragging用的，其余的我和LD平分一下其实也没多少。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 2 You guys are so brave to push limit on leads. When you start alpine routes,
you'll realize how safe cragging is compared to alpine. A twisted ankle is
the least of your fear, it is just the beginning of your epic torture. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 3 靠，你不来。。。wind的路线，每一个pitch放在local crag都可以成为classic |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 4 It is more about experience.
It is true given time and practice, a lot of sports climbers who climbed
better in gym/crag can do better job in alpine rock. The funny thing is I
found most sports climbers don't think Alpine rock is fun. |
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o*****t
发帖数: 227 | 5 Seattle Climbers, 有谁那个周末有空？我准备周四晚到，周五到周日爬三天，周一走
。估计爬些5.8/9的Alpine Rock，再cragging一下。我有绳子rack，你最好能solid
follow 5.9. 如果你想swap lead, 也可。 |
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s****t
发帖数: 746 | 6 cragging也罢了，alpine rock，这边有人能follow 5.9吗？ |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 7 feel free to sleep on my couch on Thursday night. I can't take friday off
and my following skills are not up to your leading grade. Alpine 5.8 is fine
, 5.9 is a little sketchy for me. But if you want to do some cragging on Sat
/Sun, I can join you. |
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s****t
发帖数: 746 | 8 这么晚到的话，第二天估计只能cragging了，
Stuart和dragontail的approach都挺长的，
第二天早上才从Seattle这边过去估计来不及了 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 9 I'd frown upon anyone who uses the rap ring for sling shot belay and lower.
It's against the etiquette of cragging |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 10 10.2 is the new 11 now. I was laughed at when I broke out my 10.2 rope at a
crag the other day. I'm waiting to retire it in another season or two. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 11 我中秋也不在家。不过RRG也是我的home crag了，呵呵 |
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o*****t
发帖数: 227 | 12 准备载aspen周围转转，周日回，主题黄叶，以siteseeing, hiking, cragging为主，
现在想到要去的地方包括Maroon
Bells, Independence Pass, 或是去Durango MTbiking, 科洲朋友提提建议建议？ 谢
了 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 13 In alpine environment, freezing pipe is a big problem
but for multipitch cragging, I think it is fine.
For Alpine climbing, I will take my backpack for sure |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14 sub zero是600 fill的，phantom是800。我都穿过，没啥好说的，800 fill的肯定胜出
。SAC上等等，phantom也不是很贵。牌子不是很重要，只要fill和充绒量足就行了。我
常穿的一件是OR的600 fill，很轻便，对付20F以上的温度没有问题。探路者的我也有
一件，觉得有点山寨，绒充的不够蓬松，而且比较厚重。在city里和cragging的时候穿
过，glacier climb的时候没穿过
Zero |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 15 我刚才数了一下，今年已经21天花在cragging上了，圣诞节还要爬几天 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 16 Smith. Skiing & cragging |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17 看上去不差，唯一的concern就是不适合做redpoint project。谁买这么细的绳子
cragging啊 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 18 it depends a lot on what kind of climbing you do. cragging? sport? trad?
alpine? long approach/short approach? how long are the routes? do you intend
to climb with the pack or leave it at the base? |
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s********e
发帖数: 814 | 19
放狗发现有人diy：
This is a bomber bag with the perfect amount of space for a day at the crag
. It fits everything I need INSIDE (60m
rope, 50m webbing, harness, helmet, shoes, quickdraws, chalkbag, lunch,
first aid kit, etc). If I run some cord through
the loops on the lid and strap my rope to the outside, it opens up some
space for my lightweight sleeping bag and
bivy. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 20 sure, but why the hassle while there are plenty of packs that are readily
available with rope compression straps? also, they didn't count for the rack
. I don't think you can fit a 60m rope and a rack (even a light one) in the
pack.
crag |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 22 If you are just cragging, you don't need a dry rope. |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 23 从Red rocks回来基本就在放羊，弱的不行了，这周要开始坚持每周两次gym, 不过到处
都是雨雪天气，什么时候才能出去
正经爬一回。。。
话说从red rocks回来，深感附近小crag一帮人混一天这种搞法效率太低了，每次能
toprope两三条路线就不错了， 还是要
严肃的爬lead才有长进。 而且日程表上有个trip平常训练才有目标。
有没有人想二月初去joshua tree的？ |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 24 My boyfriend just came back home with an injured head from foot tripping
behind the rope on sports lead. He shed quite a bit of blood banging on the
limestone wall of Krabi Beach, Thailand.
I frequently find myself to be the only one waring a helmet on the crag. A
little hot sometimes though.
I |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 25 十三号下午过完年，开到Joshua Tree跟组织会和，一路上看到所有的camp ground都是
full，还是有组织好。好几个星期没见面，大家都亲切，拥抱，问好，聚餐，围着篝火
喝到十一点，睡觉。帐篷里44F，热醒，把睡袋和rain fly拉开，才睡好，除了中间起
了两次起来喝水，方便，酒这个实在是好，除了很脱水之外。
十四号起来，早饭，聊天，到crag已经十点多了，几个rope gun爬上爬下，一会好几条
路线就设好了，爬。。。爬到腿软，天黑前四个人simu climb了一条路线(my first
simu climb)。:)
最喜欢的是我的第一条crack，double cross，5.7（rope gun们一直认at least 5.8，
lots of work）。我们老大先挺着六个月的大肚子给我们演示了一下，开爬前老大给我
来了个crack crash course，如何hand jam，foot jam，toe jam。个人体会是foot
jam很solid，一旦开始trust your hand jam，非常的solid，简直bomber proof。有老
大在下面c |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 26 Not while you are in flat Michigan, too limited for climbing. You need to
come to the west.
Find a job in Socal. You can ski in the morning, enjoy hard cragging in the
afternoon, have real Chinese food for dinner, and Karaoake (for young guys)
in Little Tai Bei in the evening.
Socal, there is no place like it. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 27 I assume you are talking about the belay biner.
I have a bunch of vaperlocks. They are a bit too small for munter hitches.
They don't work too well with reverso 3, which is the belay device I use for
multipitch cragging. A great lightweight biner for belaying is Petzl
Attache 3D. 50g and enough bearing surface for munter and reverso. it's a
little pricy though.
Vaporlock或DMM Sentinel这样的小 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 28 I use grigri mostly for aid climb. I bring it on sport cragging too, so that
people can hangdog. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 29 redriverclimbing.com的主页上写: welcome home。不知道对多少人来说，The Red不
仅仅是个home crag，而是一个second home。我认识的很多人，都是在RRG遇到自己生
命中的另一半的。我们的大多数朋友，也都是RRG regulars。这个周末的Miguel's特别
拥挤喧闹，新修的厕所和浴室像个丑陋的庞然大物。熙熙攘攘的人群，半夜两三点不睡
觉的college kids，拥挤的camp site隔壁帐篷里传来的鼾声。天上的星星特别亮。回
来瞟了一眼facebook，一个朋友的status换成了I miss the bright stars...
这个season是我在Red的最后一个season了，也是specimen同学的最后一个season了。
"spesimen“这个外号是我们去年给某精壮肌肉男起的，这位同学攀岩全凭蛮力。为了
追gym某ppmm每周来gym 5 次之多。结果mm没追到，今年人家已经成功转型技术男，每
周都onsight/red point几个5.12，下个月就搬家去Boulder了，最近几次是他在RRG最
后的日 |
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r******h
发帖数: 809 | 30 我之前又不认识他，看他随便看看墙就敢爬，还以为是很有经验的牛人。
结果第一个clip第一次反了，我告诉他了，拿出来再挂，还是反的，我当然就开始担心
啦... 我们crag课也说了back clip如果fall，容易门打开di~ |
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f********r
发帖数: 3155 | 31 If you go to social events such as cragging, then get cotton canvas pants
such as Arc'Teryx Spotter or Patagonia Standup. They are comfortable,
durable, and fashionable. :)
If you go on serious climbs such as multi-pitch or alpine rock, then soft
shell pants for cooler weather, fast dry pants for warmer weather. |
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f********r
发帖数: 3155 | 32 I have Bora 35, 65, and 80. I was gonna get all five of them, but have too
many 50L packs so I pass Bora 50. Bora 95 is too much unless you go climb
McKinley, so I passed it for now. Among all my backpacks, I like Bora 35 and
80 the most.
Bora 35 is made for cragging, good suspension, right size, super durable.
Try butt slide on those flimsy light weight packs, they will be teared up in
no
time. You can drag your Bora 35 behind your truck, it will survive. Too bad
it is discontinued.
Bora 80 is |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 33 我现在带icon越来越多了，除非是road side cragging |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 34 all technical packs would have straps for a rope. anything >= 30L would be
more than enough for cragging
：（ 而 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 35 Now I almost always use autoblock when rappeling except at single pitch
crags. It probably slows me down 10 seconds per rappel, but I think it's
well worth it. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 36 it stopped raining around noon but the rock was never dry enough. we ended
up building at least 20 anchors at a crag. after that, we checked a route at
castle rock that I wanted to do but it was still pretty wet. and I didn't
want to lead a wet 5.8. |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 37 I use the high friction side of the reverso 3 when I rappel on a thin rope.
Also, extending the rappel helps a LOT with increasing the effectiveness of
autoblock. I have rapped off twin ropes quite a few times with this setting
and felt quite comfortable. ATC is not really designed for modern day thin
ropes. I mostly use it for cragging now.
it |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 38 你不要着急，先用club的绳子就行了。而且在oregon爬alpine rock的机会不多，
cragging不要用这么细的绳子 |
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b***y
发帖数: 824 | 40 My ice climb is also canceled
Want to go cragging in Leavenworth? |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 41 I'm considering skinning up Mt Hood (below Hogsback) or Muir Snowfield. If
it's not a go, definitely cragging. |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 42 Well, at least you have one credit now.
I have a business trip next week so I can not go cragging this weekend. May
spend one day with kids and one day working.
field |
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d**p
发帖数: 1800 | 43 他们用的绳子只有7mm。我在想，170，180lbs的人用10mm cragging的话，140lbs的是
不是9mm也够了？ |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 44 It appears that there may be some dangerous anti-climber sentiment along the
Clackamus River in Oregon. An individual left a fixed line on a crag, which
was cut in such a way as it was hidden. The climber believes that the rope
cut was hidden with murderous intent.
To read more,
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/962728/1 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 45 有deal的时候添$20也能买到dry的。我们这些fair weather cragger不存在同样的烦恼
。我只有alpine rope才考虑dry不dry
rope
overhang |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 46 I heard Red has great overhange routes, you barely get wet even when it is
heavy downpour.
rope
overhang |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 47 You do get wet a little though... |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 49 When there's water everywhere except a small pocket underneath the wall,
there's no way you can keep your rope (and yourself) dry |
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