T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 1 最近版上爬雪山热，就我所知道的，随便说几句
1.关于雪山的难度:
snow climbing不象rock climbing一样，有很明确的难度标准定义。同样一座雪山，其
攀登难度受天气，雪况影响，都不一样。雪山最终形状的形成， 和每年的降雪，风向变
化，温度变化关系很密切，同样一座雪山，同一条路线，在不同的年份里，攀登难度差
别可能很大。也许在容易的时候，就是一个hike, 难的时候，需要你会很多技能。另外
一个重要因素是天气，很多雪山，在晴朗的天气里看起来很温和，在storm来的时候，一
样可以杀人。
对登山者来说，最重要的一点是一定要获得最新的路线信息，比如说你明天要去登山，
那么前一两周的trip report就很重要，只要天气变化不大，路线难度相差也不会太大。
但是如果天气变化比较剧烈，比如说刚有过降雪或者高温，你就要把这些因素都考虑进
去。
2.登雪山需要什么样的条件
首先，身体条件，这是最基本的。虽然很多雪山并不难，但是仍然要求身体条件比较好
，你不一定需要非常出色，但是要有比较好的耐力。在雪地行走，要比普通的hike费力
很多，另外，还要考虑为了抵御低温，身体需要更多的能 |
|
z****8
发帖数: 35 | 2 The two best climbing books I read.
1. Doctor on Everest. About life on Everest as a climbing team doctor.
2. Forever on the Mountain. About tragic 1967 Mt McKinley expedition. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 3 ☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
TrueCabbage (醋溜圆白菜) 于 (Mon Apr 14 01:30:18 2008) 提到:
最近版上爬雪山热，就我所知道的，随便说几句
1.关于雪山的难度:
snow climbing不象rock climbing一样，有很明确的难度标准定义。同样一座雪山，其
攀登难度受天气，雪况影响，都不一样。雪山最终形状的形成， 和每年的降雪，风向变
化，温度变化关系很密切，同样一座雪山，同一条路线，在不同的年份里，攀登难度差
别可能很大。也许在容易的时候，就是一个hike, 难的时候，需要你会很多技能。另外
一个重要因素是天气，很多雪山，在晴朗的天气里看起来很温和，在storm来的时候，一
样可以杀人。
对登山者来说，最重要的一点是一定要获得最新的路线信息，比如说你明天要去登山，
那么前一两周的trip report就很重要，只要天气变化不大，路线难度相差也不会太大。
但是如果天气变化比较剧烈，比如说刚有过降雪或者高温，你就要把这些因素都考虑进
去。
2.登雪山需要什么样的条件
首先，身体条件 |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 4 ☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
TrueCabbage (醋溜圆白菜~青菜豆腐) 于 (Thu Jun 5 15:35:43 2008) 提到:
I am going to lead a Hood climb on June. 14 (or 15) if weather opens. Anyone
interested?
Qualification:
Taking any basic mountaineering class or having equivalent skills, including:
1.Snow travel
2.crampons techniques
3.ice-axe self arrest
4.rope team travel
You also need to have good physical condition (elevation gain 5300ft, round
trip 6 mi)
Climbing gears:
Ice axe, crampons, helmet, harness, |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 5 Gear list:
Locked carabiner
Harness
ATC
Rock climbing shoes
Chalk bag & chalk
新手刚开始爬，可以考虑买Black Diamond beginner package, 有deal的时候60多块钱
就可以把除了鞋以外的所有东西买齐，比单独买要便宜。不过我个人不喜欢package里
面的ATC，摩擦力太小。如果在local店里买可以让店员换成摩擦力大的ATC-XP，省力30
%。如果想一步到位为以后室外爬multi-pitch准备，就买ATC-Guide，贵几块钱，可以
从上方belay follower。
有些gym只允许使用gri-gri，有些gym没有这个限制。总的来说新手学belay不建议用
gri-gri，养成依赖以后没法真正学会belay。
Package里的Harness是有型号的。最好到店里去试。腰带double back以后要有>10cm的
剩余，腿带要有>6cm剩余。如果想同一个harness以后用来玩mountaineering，型号就
要稍微选大些，保证穿上冬天的衣服也能穿进harness。 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 6 Lion's Head在Ontario的Bruce Peninsula，lime stone cliff，朝向Lake Huron，悬
崖下面就是清澈深蓝的湖水，非常漂亮。climbing season在每年夏季，即使七月份有
时候都会很冷。今年Labor Day总算赶在天冷之前去了一次。Approach大约半小时，
guide book上都会有warning说Lion's Head是serious climbing。原因一个是5.10以下
的线就几条，大部分路线都是5.10-5.12的overhang；而且绝大部分的线路都要从上面
repel，然后hanging belay。最好跟有经验的人一起去，否则如果repel的地方没找对
就郁闷了。因为在trail上看不到belay anchor，要repel下去十几米才能看到。belay
anchor都在下方攀爬的起点。
guide book上说如果repel下去又没能力爬上来，就要花两个小时从下面走上来。实际
上prusik up就可以了，10分钟就好。只是一个人挂在下面挣扎，上面的人又看不到发
生了什么，比较郁闷。我的第一个aid cl |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 7 A good dinner after a climb is always a treat. I'm compiling a list of
restaurants out of climbs in Northwest. I am not including any restaurants
in major metro areas (i.e. Seattle and Portland). I am hoping to get some
input from NW people. Here is what I currently have, which is not many:
* North Cascades
* Central Cascades
o North Bend Bar & Grill
Address: 145 E North Bend Way, North Bend, WA (map)
Phone: 425-888-1243
o Issaquah Brew House
|
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 A good dinner after a climb is always a treat. I'm compiling a list of
restaurants out of climbs in Northwest. I am not including any restaurants
in major metro areas (i.e. Seattle and Portland). I am hoping to get some
input from NW people. Here is what I currently have, which is not many:
* North Cascades
* Central Cascades
o North Bend Bar & Grill
Address: 145 E North Bend Way, North Bend, WA (map)
Phone: 425-888-1243
o Issaquah Brew House
... 阅读全帖 |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 9 基本上
不过也要看季节,温度,海拔,纬度.
比如说Mt.Hood,如果是winter climb,早晨4点左右出发,中午12点之前下山,一般没问题
,因为冬季温度低,雪稳定,即便是白天,freezing level也很低
如果是summer climb(包括late spring), 白天太阳出来之后,雪软得很快. 那时候登
Hood,都是夜里12点左右出发,清晨登顶,最迟早晨10点就要下山
登rainier也一样,冲顶那天都是夜里出发,早晨登顶,等到雪软,开始有雪崩,或者冰缝裂
开危险的时候,已经下山了 |
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a***a
发帖数: 40617 | 10 Arcadia Rock Climbing
305 N. Santa Anita Ave.
Los Angeles, Arcadia California 91006
i feel i would like to learn some basic climbing (of course with less
expense, comparing to your $120 joshua tree course). |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 11 without the climbing shoes, 5.7 is already veli hard. That's why the rate
was like that years ago. With recent years' advance in climbing shoes' sole,
5.7 is nothing for most novices.
place |
|
a***a
发帖数: 40617 | 12 sounds good. even though i don't climb, i can still practice aid-climbing
after fall in a crevasse |
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a***a
发帖数: 40617 | 13 i remember you guys once discussing about size problems for climbing shoes
here.
if i wear 9.5, what's the size i should get for climbing shoes? |
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g***w
发帖数: 3 | 14 第一次来这个版，就看到pinkeverlast大侠的置顶贴，受益匪浅，才知道原来攀岩有这
么多学问。俺从来没试过，但一直对这项运动心驰神往，只是不知道如何开始，精华区
里也没找到多少信息，只好再发贴问一下了。如果以前有人问过类似问题，请见谅。
1. 怎么找比较好的rock climbing club/gym?网上搜到一些club/gym，但是不知道应该
选那个，请问作为新手应该注重gym的哪些方面？
2. rock climbing 可以锻炼身体的那些肌肉？会不会让腿或手臂过于粗壮？
谢谢！ |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 15 I want to do the road side craig and plate techtonics in Muir Valley.
I've been thinking about these two places for a long time. However, my
usual climbing partner has been there too many times and has no insentives
to go there again. If any of you gals go with me, we can do some moderate
climbs in these areas, say 5.10 and below, with some awsome easy 5.7-5.8s
Mountains |
|
p*******r
发帖数: 180 | 16 it is always a hit and miss when you grab someone randomly. it really pisses
me
off when someone boosts about his numbers before putting on the harness and
starts crying for mummy when the climb begins.
one time i met a canadian at smith. he, to this day, is probably the best
random partner i've had. the guy drives an old dodge van which has been his
home for the last 10 yrs. he skis and works in whistler bc in winter and
climbs
all summer long...a life style i envy but cannot afford.
over
to
d |
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w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 17 day 1. Sun. sunny, Roadside. Lan and me climbed with pink & her bf. I led
two 5.7, top-roped 5.10b, 5.10a (overhang, failed - and the rocks are sharp,
hard on fingers)
day 2. Mon. sunny, Roadside. climb with hmc kids. it's their rest day. I led
a 5.8. I was planning to lead a 5.9, but O took a leader fall and hurt his
ankle, so I saved it.
day 3. Tues. sunny, Muir Valley. I led several lines, 5.7-5.8-5.9-5.10b-5.8-
5.10a-5.7.
day 4. Wed. raining, Muir Valley. I led a 5.11a with two takes and l |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 18 Southern IL has some good outdoor climbing places.
climbing
know
fun together. |
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n*****a
发帖数: 1327 | 19 I went back to shasta again after last week's climb.
I arrived the bunny flat trail head around 11p.m. saturday night and car
camped there.
The next morning, I started at 6a.m. and climbed to about 11000 ft at around
1p.m. it took me half an hour to change to downhill equipment and another
half an hour to ski to the trail head. A guy glissading helped me to take a
pictures on the half way down.
1st time out of bounds ski; Skiing down was the most fun part; it feels like skiing in Squaw with your |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 20 urgh, this is probably too big a question to ask. my canned answer to such
questions is: "it depends". This is the answer I get a lot when I ask
questions, and it drives me nuts :D
Seriously though, if you want to go for alpine climbs, you'd better get some
first aid knowledge. And you'd better climb with people who have basic self
rescue technique. The best way is to learn through practicing. There are
some books that I can recommend too. But without practice, the books are
worthless. |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 21 嗯，book without practice的确是useless
最近没事干上厕所睡觉前都在翻rock climbing的基本知识的书
里边很多内容以前看的时候以为明白了，现在翻回头结合自己的实践
才发现很多东西具体是什么含义
我要去搞alpone climb，肯定得去找certified instructor正式上课才会去
否则跟着别人走，就算领队的再有经验，自己的安全还是在自己手里
some
self |
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 22 It was not cold at night, but wind blowing tent turned out to be very noisy.
We did not get good sleep. Getting up at 2:00am, we roped up, put crampons
on, and started to climb by 3:00am. We climbed in darkness, negotiated
crevasses, and reached the first schrund when the first sunlight hit the
glacier. You can not really tell the difference between sunrise and sunset
on glaciers by only looking at photos, but they are both beautiful. Looking
into the abyss of deep crevasses, I felt they were re |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 23 Sat Jun 27
早上从Detroit出发，下午三点到达New，直奔Junk Yard，因为这是approach最短的几
个climbing area之一。
1. New Yosemite 5.9 Trad，先follow了这条线，发现jamming都很solid。下来后又爬
了一次，这次是lead。过overhang之前保险起见take了一次，不过总体觉得很solid。
这是我的第一个5.9 trad lead!
2. Jumpin' Jack Flash 5.7+ trad lead onsight。挺有趣的，先一个chimney然后是
hand crack。我本来想用这条线热身，结果一个guide挂了top rope让一个新手爬。新
手半途放弃了。我们都觉得这个guide做得不好，如果是新手的第一个crack climbing
，你怎么能给人家找一个chimney + crack，两个不同的技巧混在一起，而且不会爬
chimney的话很awkward，搞得人家根本摸不着头脑。人家摸不着头脑也不给做示范动作
，就在那里看着。同学们，guide也有糊弄的啊。
Sun Jun 2 |
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 24 赞，加羡慕有人带玩。
关于怎样下山：是否穿冰爪，face in还是face out down climb。我从来是根据自己的
comfort level来决定，这些问题上不能随大流。有些坡即使牛人们不穿，我也花点时
间穿上，何况不穿会心里没谱下的很慢。有些大坡从上面看跟悬崖似的，经验实力不够
之前，只能face in down climb. |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 25 sigh, sorry to hear about this.
actually i just recently had the thought that I might be just happy to stay
with sports climbing and toproping, trad leading is just too demanding and
risky although I have always yearned for the thrill and I am more passionate
about rock climbing than ever. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 26 Oct 3, 2009
The Gallary
1. 27 Years of Climbing 5.8 L warm up
这是一年多前我第一次户外lead，觉得很solid的线，是RRG beginner路线中很经典的
一条。第二次爬觉得真是easy and enjoyable，很多move都挺有意思的
2. Murano 5.10b L onsight
overhang jugs + balancy slab finish. My 3rd 5.10b onsight on lead.
3. A brief History of Climb 5.10c TR onsight.
Tricky start with overhang juggy finish
Shady Grove
真是名副其实的shady，整个wall是大角度的overhang，布满了大大小小的pocket
4. Girls Gong Wild 5.10d TR 3 takes
This is a very overhang and pumpy route. Really fun moves in a corner
P |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 27 Beginner climbing shoes tend to be stiff. You'd have to try on a couple of
intermediate gym climbing shoes to pick the one for you. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 28 Some friends and I are going to spend Xmas/New year holiday in central
Oregon.
We will do downhill skiing at Mt.Bachelor ski resort (3 days+), and do rock
climbing at Smith Rock (2 days+). Probably we will also do backcountry
skiing.
If you are interested in skiing and/or rock climbing, you are welcome to
join us. |
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c*******k
发帖数: 2427 | 29 一月份可能有个机会 Ice Climbing in CO。现在手里有一个表（Ice Climbing
Equipment之类的不用自己准备），要完全按照这个表来准备衣服之类的吗？虽然这个
表有点长，但还是对到底要带多少、多厚的衣服之类的没啥概念。欢迎各种建议。
Personal Clothing and Equipment
Waterproof Shell jacket
Waterproof Shell pants
Wool or other thick, synthetic socks
Lightweight wool or polypropylene underwear (top and bottom)
Expedition Weight wool or polypropylene underwear (top and bottom)
Wool or fleece gloves
Ski glove or mitt
Stocking Cap
Balaclava or similar full featured hat
Wool or fleece pants
Wool or pile |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 30 嗯，记下来了，会慢慢看的。最近在看几本讲技巧的书
Speed climbing by Florine and Wright
Climbing self-rescue by Tyson and Loomis
刚刚看完了几本其它的 |
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p*******r
发帖数: 180 | 31 Hanns Florine and which Wright, Cedar? Got that climbing self rescue
awhile ago. it has been the best sleeping bill i've ever had, not that i
need it :)
honestly i find those books about techniques and etc etc too dry to
follow. on the contrary, those climbing history literature really grasp my
interest. Camp 4 by steve roper is filled with good stories and
characters, mountaineering in N. america by chris jones is great. Glen
Denny's recent book "yosemite in the sixties", published by patagonia |
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 32 Did Rainbow buttress today
In hiking shoes...I forgot to bring my climbing shoe, and ended up using
hiking shoe for most of the way, except three hard sections that I used
prussik to save time. Great trip...Will go back home tomorrow. Wish I can
climb more
We were really worried about time, since committed IV routes are really not
for a day with only 10 hrs of daylight. We hiked in the first day, did
another easy route to get familier with the descent. Then the second day we
linked pitches a lot |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 33 This is a general packing list, covering trips from sports climbing to multi
-pitch trad, so that I can select a subset of stuffs to bring for each trip.
It sucks to forget your shoes after hiking all the approach...
Harness
Locking binner x5
Climbing shoes
Chalk bag and chalk
Personal anchor
Anchor building kit
Rope
Head lamp with additional batteries
Belay device
Draws and additional slings
Hero loop
Nut tool
Rack
Webbing
Helmet
First aid kit
Knife
Duck tape
Repel ring
Layes of clothes
Socks
G |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 34 SCMA每隔一周上次课，其它基本跟同事一起玩。
SCMA很拽的要求，从来没听说哪个Mountaineering/climbing association门槛这么高
http://www.rockclimbing.org/membership.htm
There are two possible paths to become an SCMA member:
Safety Test for Experienced Climbers
Do you have at least two or more years of experience in either leading or
following multi-pitch traditional climbs? Can you tie a bowline, prusik knot
, grapevine knot and a clove hitch? Are you competent at rappelling,
prusiking, and setting safe multi-pitch belay anchors? You may |
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 35 Crack除了疼痛外，主要还是心里没谱，感觉不够solid
有一次看到我们gym的5.12 & Plus circle的一帮人切磋个带overhang的crack (crux
is finger crack)，不仅climb up，而且climb down。仔细看各种姿势都有，看到一个
家伙像用jumar一样爬，貌似比双手双脚交替更稳
jamming |
|
e*******9
发帖数: 193 | 36 I am going to a conference at Las Vegas from 3/16 to 3/21. I will spend last
1.5 days to check out the Red Rock. Since I am going alone, I will only
bring the basic climbing gear just in case I can meet nice people that I can
join to climb there.
I am thinking to drive around and camp there. I haven't done much research.
Any tips are welcomed.
Thanks a lot. |
|
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 37 1. Exposed Hiking: Half Dome
2. High-Altitude Hiking: Longs Peak
3. Snow Climbing: Mount Shasta
4. Multipitch Rock: Liberty Bell
5. Multipitch Rock at Altitude: Grand Teton
6. Glacier Travel: Mount Rainier
7. Exposed Multipitch Rock: Wolf's Head
8. Expedition Climbing with Altitude: El Pico de Orizaba
9. Strenuous Multipitch Rock: Mount Whitney
10. Himalayan-Caliber Expedition: Mount McKinley
Quite a few 50 CCs, should be one every climber's tick list.
Details here
http://outside.away.com/outsid |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 38 After a few warm up climbs, I normally know it is a performance climbing day
or a training day |
|
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 40 I second this. Lots of times people claim that they're 5.11 climbers when
they can only hanging dog on toprope 5.11s. You only qualify 5.11
climbers when you can lead onsight most 5.11s on most climbing areas.
My friend had a bad experience hooking up online with a newbie who says he
can climb 5.10s without problem but end up shaking leading 5.8s sports.
I appreciate it when people make it clear what they actually mean by those
meaningless numbers.
V4s, |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 41 ☆─────────────────────────────────────☆
freeflight (flight) 于 (Sat Feb 20 22:08:12 2010, 美东) 提到:
1. Exposed Hiking: Half Dome
2. High-Altitude Hiking: Longs Peak
3. Snow Climbing: Mount Shasta
4. Multipitch Rock: Liberty Bell
5. Multipitch Rock at Altitude: Grand Teton
6. Glacier Travel: Mount Rainier
7. Exposed Multipitch Rock: Wolf's Head
8. Expedition Climbing with Altitude: El Pico de Orizaba
9. Strenuous Multipitch Rock: Mount Whitney
10. Himalayan-Caliber Expedition: Mount McKinley
Qu |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 42 什么climbing shoe？
rock climbing？ or mountaineering？ |
|
|
R**i
发帖数: 7994 | 44 那我不行，我从来也没真的“爬”过山,gym那些个rock climbing我还是近10年前国内
刚有这玩意的时候玩过
就去参加个没难度的，Discover Climbing了。 |
|
x******n
发帖数: 1328 | 45 问一下，一般本版climbing/爬山都是指class 5.x的攀岩么？
因为同时本版的那个Whitney的帖子climbing/爬山指的是class 3
的scrambling，还有很多地方爬山就是指class 1的hiking，
所以这些帖子我都糊涂了。 |
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 46 we all need to keep track of all the climbs for bookkeeping purpose. it is
your climbing resume. of course, if you have done anything really impressive
, your resume becomes short. Some climbers' resume can be as simple as two
words: K2 & the nose. |
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 47 All from Chinese version of Freedom 7,
翻译：吴佩真等 （台湾大学登山队）
belay = 确保
anchor = 固定点
That's me. = 拉到我
On Belay? = 准备攀登
Belay on. = 确保完成
Climbing = 开始攀登
Climb = 攀登
slack = 给绳
Up rope = 收绳
Tension = 收绳
Falling = 坠落
Off Belay = 解除确保
Belay off = 确保解除
OK = OK
不知道国内现在是不是这么叫。。。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 48 climbing? climb on.
爬了？ 爬吧。 |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 49 读完了John Long和Bob Gaines的《Climbing Anchors》第二版。这个是他以前写的两本书合起来形成的，前一本是讲单个的确保点，后一本是讲确保点系统。很详细，算是类似领域的开山之作。
关于Anchor System，我们这里常用的是Cordelettes和Sliding X，书里头对Equalette和Quad评价很高。这个Equalette目前在climb中使用的广泛程度到底如何？实际弄起来还是有点复杂，要是pitch比较多后来大概会发昏，大家对这个是什么看法？ |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 50
两本书合起来形成的，前一本是讲单个的确保点，后一本是讲确保点系统。很详细，算
是类似领域的开山之作。
Equalette和Quad评价很高。这个Equalette目前在climb中使用的广泛程度到底如何？
实际弄起来还是有点复杂，要是pitch比较多后来大概会发昏，大家对这个是什么看法？
free climbing基本没有人用 |
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