c*****2
发帖数: 2709 | 1 杀宽叶草的weed & feed能杀么？后院都是，今天拍的。在新泽西。 |
c********d
发帖数: 11593 | 2 开小白花的是繁缕，可以用weed&feed杀。有兴趣的话可以拔起来做沙拉，据说是不错
的维生素和纤维素来源，还降血脂。 |
c*****2
发帖数: 2709 | 3 还有。和好草能间隔这一起长。
【在 c*****2 的大作中提到】
: 杀宽叶草的weed & feed能杀么？后院都是，今天拍的。在新泽西。
|
l*********d
发帖数: 21519 | 4 很壮观！
建议还是请lawn service，这些自己很难弄！
【在 c*****2 的大作中提到】
: 还有。和好草能间隔这一起长。
|
c*****2
发帖数: 2709 | 5 自己先试试，搞不定再请人弄吧。看看是什么杂草。有过蒲公英和螃蟹草泛滥的，现在
都控制得还行。
【在 l*********d 的大作中提到】
: 很壮观！
: 建议还是请lawn service，这些自己很难弄！
|
f*1
发帖数: 837 | 6 The grassy ones with seed heads and boat shaped leaf tips are Poa Annua,
which are very hard to control. The Weed and Feed products have no effects
on them.
【在 c*****2 的大作中提到】
: 杀宽叶草的weed & feed能杀么？后院都是，今天拍的。在新泽西。
|
m**6
发帖数: 6426 | 7 惨了，这下可怎么办？
我发现有些杂草气候一热就死翘了，我后院春天的时候小鸡草盛行，请人撒药都没法控
制。
现在天热了，他们自动消失了。
effects
【在 f*1 的大作中提到】
: The grassy ones with seed heads and boat shaped leaf tips are Poa Annua,
: which are very hard to control. The Weed and Feed products have no effects
: on them.
|
c*****2
发帖数: 2709 | 8 再来张近点的特写。Poa annua也就是Annual bluegrass么？
effects
【在 f*1 的大作中提到】
: The grassy ones with seed heads and boat shaped leaf tips are Poa Annua,
: which are very hard to control. The Weed and Feed products have no effects
: on them.
|
c*****2
发帖数: 2709 | 9 查了一下，这东西和crabgrass的生长季节是相反的。用秋天用crabgrass preventer防
止它生长。
今年春天用了crabgrass preventer防crab grass，能不能用秋天用crabgrass
preventer防Poa Annua？就是说差不多一年把crabgrass和Poa Annua两个都抑制生长。
虽然这个秋天不能种草了，但是如果今年夏天crab grass没有出来，就可以在春天种好
草了。
effects
【在 f*1 的大作中提到】
: The grassy ones with seed heads and boat shaped leaf tips are Poa Annua,
: which are very hard to control. The Weed and Feed products have no effects
: on them.
|
f*1
发帖数: 837 | 10 You have Poa Annua, Chickweed, and Oxalis. I'll write more about them
tomorrow. |
|
|
c*****2
发帖数: 2709 | 11 谢谢。有劳专家你费心指导。
【在 f*1 的大作中提到】
: You have Poa Annua, Chickweed, and Oxalis. I'll write more about them
: tomorrow.
|
H*****t
发帖数: 322 | 12 哇，终于看到又有人要跳这个坑了。你照片中的杂草在我的后院都有唉，尤其是背阴处
（bluegrass,clover,chickweeds,oxalis).我已经跟这帮无良的家伙斗争了十几年。战
果那是惨不忍睹。
bluegrass，chickweed,oxalis都是在9，10月份发芽，如果你在冬天到来之前不做
Preemergence Control。漫长的冬天让它们的根系发育得强壮无比，到四五月份开花时
你就头大了。更重要的是，如果你有一个懒邻居，干啥都是白费劲。
如果你真得想控制这些杂草，我的经验是在每年9月15日前后必需施一次weed control
，在重灾区可以考虑10月底加试一次。然后就是在立春之前不断的拔, 真的没有其它好
办法。 |
f*1
发帖数: 837 | 13 Grassy weeds like crabgrass and poa annua are harder to control post-
emergently because they are also grasses. Broadleaf weeds like chickweed
and oxalis are easier to control post-emergently because they are not
grasses. All the above four can be effectively controlled by most pre-
emergent herbicides (i.e. crabgrass preventers).
Coalpilerd already identified chickweed in your first picture, although I
saw more poa annua there than chickweed so I reminded you the grassy ones as
well. Your second picture has more chickweed than poa annua. Your third
picture has chickweed and oxalis (the ones with heart shaped leaves) with no
poa annua.
For post-emergent control of chickweed and oxalis, try products with at
least 8% triclopyr (e.g. Ortho WBG CCO). Check the following thread for
more details:
http://www.mitbbs.com/article_t/gardening/31968859.html
You may need to apply a couple of times with 2 weeks intervals. Be patient
and give it time. Follow the label carefully. Spray when the weeds are
actively growing. Do add some surfactant. Check this thread for more
details about surfactants:
http://www.mitbbs.com/article_t/Living/33187203.html
Generally speaking, it is much more effective to spray post-emergent
herbicides in liquid form than spreading the granular Weed and Feed products.
You are absolutely right that putting down pre-emergents (i.e. crabgrass
preventers) in late summer and early fall would effectively prevent the
winter annuals (poa annua, common chickweed etc.) and cool-season perennials
(creeping woodsorrel/oxalis etc.) from germination in the fall. The
product label should state what weeds to control and the time of application.
Also it is much better to seed/overseed in the fall than in the spring. If
you do have to seed/overseed in the spring, make sure you are confident that
you don’t have much crabgrass pressure (one year of pre-emergent
application may not be enough) and also try not to disturb the soil (like
tillering or aerating) in case it may bring more weed seeds to the surface.
The most important thing to remember about weeds is to make sure you have
good soil and a healthy and thick lawn with deep rooted good grass such that
most weeds won’t be able to compete. Before that stage is reached, some
chemicals have to be used unless you are so determined to pull all weeds
manually (which should be encouraged if it is possible). |
z**x
发帖数: 3629 | 14 在这张weed4图片里的，我觉得weed b gon是完全可以杀掉的。
【在 c*****2 的大作中提到】
: 再来张近点的特写。Poa annua也就是Annual bluegrass么？
:
: effects
|
f*1
发帖数: 837 | 15 Good observation: Common chickweed, poa annua and many others are winter
annuals, which means they germinate in the fall and/or winter of the
previous year, actively grow in the spring, flower and seed in late spring/
early summer and then die in the heat of the summer. That's their lifecycle
. A good control is to use pre-emergents in late summer/early fall before
they germinate. You can also spray post-emergent herbicides in early spring
when they grow and before they flower and seed.
【在 m**6 的大作中提到】
: 惨了，这下可怎么办？
: 我发现有些杂草气候一热就死翘了，我后院春天的时候小鸡草盛行，请人撒药都没法控
: 制。
: 现在天热了，他们自动消失了。
:
: effects
|
c*****2
发帖数: 2709 | 16 多谢啊。再有个问题。
“If you do have to seed/overseed in the spring, make sure you are confident
that you don’t have much crabgrass pressure (one year of pre-emergent
application may not be enough)”
这个春天用了crabgrass preventer，加上这个秋天和明年春天都再用crabgrass
preventer应该够了吧？如果这个夏天没有大量crabgrass出来，明年春天没有大量poa
annua出来应该就可以了吧。这样明年秋天再开始种草？这样的话，两年不能种好草了
，也损失很大啊。杂草死了空出来的地方容易给其他杂草占上了。
as
no
【在 f*1 的大作中提到】
: Grassy weeds like crabgrass and poa annua are harder to control post-
: emergently because they are also grasses. Broadleaf weeds like chickweed
: and oxalis are easier to control post-emergently because they are not
: grasses. All the above four can be effectively controlled by most pre-
: emergent herbicides (i.e. crabgrass preventers).
: Coalpilerd already identified chickweed in your first picture, although I
: saw more poa annua there than chickweed so I reminded you the grassy ones as
: well. Your second picture has more chickweed than poa annua. Your third
: picture has chickweed and oxalis (the ones with heart shaped leaves) with no
: poa annua.
|
f*1
发帖数: 837 | 17 If you stick to the products you can buy from the big box stores, that’s
probably the best plan (i.e. wait till the next fall).
However, lawn care is also about your expectation, your current situation,
and how much time and money you want to spend.
To make it some fun for you, I throw in 2 products which you can research
online. They are also available from online stores if you decide to use
them. You will find that suddenly you have so many more options (basically
you should see a new horizon).
Active ingredient: quinclorac (e.g. Drive XLR8). This one has very good
post-emergent control for crabgrass and some other weeds but not poa annua.
It can be applied 6 weeks after seeding.
Active ingredient: mesotrione (e.g. Tenacity). This one is a pre-emergent
for both crabgrass and poa annua (and many other weeds). However, its pre-
emergent effect lasts only about 4-6 weeks. It is also a very good post-
emergent for both crabgrass and poa annua (and many other weeds). It can be
applied during seeding time (remarkable!) However, it has an annual
application limit of 16oz/acre, so you shouldn’t expect to apply it too
many times per year.
The traditional pre-emergents (e.g. crabgrass preventer) normally need a
waiting period of about 8 weeks after seeding before application, although
they last about 3 to 8 months.
(I can see your brain is already churning :-)
For traditional pre-emergents, I recommend products with active ingredient
prodiamine (e.g. Barricade) or dithiopyr (e.g. Dimension). If you can’t
find those, using pendimethalin (e.g. Halts) from the big box stores should
be fine.
Remember to add surfactant to post-emergents and spray to the leaves
directly and don’t water afterwards. For post-emergent, always water in
after application, even for liquid sprays.
I still think fall overseeding/renovation is much better than a spring one
for cool season grass. Apart from the weed pressure differences (spring
time normally germinates much more weeds), another factor is that summer
heat might just kill new seedlings before they are mature enough if it is
too hot and/or you plant too late and/or watering isn’t maintained
adequately in the heat of the summer. It is one risk you need to consider
for a spring seeding.
Note the above discussion is mostly applicable to cool season grass. For
warm season grass, it may be another story.
I strongly suggest you do a proper soil test (e.g. Logan Labs or UMASS soil
lab) if you haven’t done so already, and amend your soil accordingly before
your next seeding.
And don’t forget proper watering (deep and infrequent) and mowing (never
cut more than 1/3rd of the current height) practices. |
c*****2
发帖数: 2709 | 18 今天到店里看了一下。请问一定要用Ortho WBG CCO杀chickweed, clover和oxalis么？
常用的ORTHO WBG Max Plus Crabgrass Concentrate能杀么(至少列了clover是杀的)？
主要担心用Ortho WBG CCO杀了chickweed, clover和oxalis，还得再杀一遍蒲公英。
ORTHO WBG Max Plus Crabgrass Concentrate肯定是能杀蒲公英的。
as
no
【在 f*1 的大作中提到】
: Grassy weeds like crabgrass and poa annua are harder to control post-
: emergently because they are also grasses. Broadleaf weeds like chickweed
: and oxalis are easier to control post-emergently because they are not
: grasses. All the above four can be effectively controlled by most pre-
: emergent herbicides (i.e. crabgrass preventers).
: Coalpilerd already identified chickweed in your first picture, although I
: saw more poa annua there than chickweed so I reminded you the grassy ones as
: well. Your second picture has more chickweed than poa annua. Your third
: picture has chickweed and oxalis (the ones with heart shaped leaves) with no
: poa annua.
|
T*******m
发帖数: 27308 | 19 这张照片上开花的是宽叶的吧？应该是一种chick weed。
【在 c*****2 的大作中提到】
: 还有。和好草能间隔这一起长。
|
f*1
发帖数: 837 | 20 The right sequence to kill broadleaf weeds is to use products with
combinations of 2,4-D, MCPP and dicamba first (Ortho WBG plain, Ortho WBG
Max and many others). If those can't kill your weeds and the weeds are
listed on Ortho WBG CCO, then use WBG CCO.
Some combinations of 2,4-D, MCPP and dicamba can kill some types of
chickweed, clover, and oxalis. But with so many combinations (both active
ingredients and concentration), it is hard to tell which ones are most
effective to which, so you have to try.
Ortho WBG CCO is different in that it only has one active ingredient with 8%
concentration which is very effective to the targeted weeds. 8% triclopyr
is 8% triclopyr no matter where you go and which product you buy, so try it
if others fail.
And don't forget to add some surfactant.
【在 c*****2 的大作中提到】
: 今天到店里看了一下。请问一定要用Ortho WBG CCO杀chickweed, clover和oxalis么？
: 常用的ORTHO WBG Max Plus Crabgrass Concentrate能杀么(至少列了clover是杀的)？
: 主要担心用Ortho WBG CCO杀了chickweed, clover和oxalis，还得再杀一遍蒲公英。
: ORTHO WBG Max Plus Crabgrass Concentrate肯定是能杀蒲公英的。
:
: as
: no
|
