i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 1 I ugly made a 5.12d in stonework last night, with more than 10 takes, but
the takes were just for rest, not for falls. And late, my partner encouraged
by my accomplishment and tried it as well, and he finished it too with
somewhat of my aids .....
This 5.12d (route 75) was all mono- or di- figure holds with few foot holds.
Frankly speaking, each move was not so hard (pretty decent figure hold
though), at least was not as hard as the one I tried in Exposure. The
problem was height of the route an |
f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 2 赞，but who is ugly?
encouraged
holds.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: I ugly made a 5.12d in stonework last night, with more than 10 takes, but
: the takes were just for rest, not for falls. And late, my partner encouraged
: by my accomplishment and tried it as well, and he finished it too with
: somewhat of my aids .....
: This 5.12d (route 75) was all mono- or di- figure holds with few foot holds.
: Frankly speaking, each move was not so hard (pretty decent figure hold
: though), at least was not as hard as the one I tried in Exposure. The
: problem was height of the route an
|
h********r
发帖数: 3291 | 3 first 12 and it's a d? are you sure the rating is correct?
Amazing. Cong.
encouraged
holds.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: I ugly made a 5.12d in stonework last night, with more than 10 takes, but
: the takes were just for rest, not for falls. And late, my partner encouraged
: by my accomplishment and tried it as well, and he finished it too with
: somewhat of my aids .....
: This 5.12d (route 75) was all mono- or di- figure holds with few foot holds.
: Frankly speaking, each move was not so hard (pretty decent figure hold
: though), at least was not as hard as the one I tried in Exposure. The
: problem was height of the route an
|
y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 4 Congratulations! Guess it will never happen in my life. |
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 5 figure finger?
is it overhang?
encouraged
holds.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: I ugly made a 5.12d in stonework last night, with more than 10 takes, but
: the takes were just for rest, not for falls. And late, my partner encouraged
: by my accomplishment and tried it as well, and he finished it too with
: somewhat of my aids .....
: This 5.12d (route 75) was all mono- or di- figure holds with few foot holds.
: Frankly speaking, each move was not so hard (pretty decent figure hold
: though), at least was not as hard as the one I tried in Exposure. The
: problem was height of the route an
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 6 I mean I did it ugly....
【在 f********t 的大作中提到】
: 赞，but who is ugly?
:
: encouraged
: holds.
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 7 yes, it's a d, but this gym grade routes a little bit higher than other gyms
, so, probably not a solid 12d, while I really don't know what a 12d should
be...
But I'm sure it is a 12s, since I know what 11d looks like and so many takes
I needed for this one......
【在 h********r 的大作中提到】
: first 12 and it's a d? are you sure the rating is correct?
: Amazing. Cong.
:
: encouraged
: holds.
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 8 not overhang at all...
here is the gym
http://stoneworksrockgym.com/photogallery.htm
it's just finger holes in a real wall( the inside wall of those tubes which
you can see in the pictures)....
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: figure finger?
: is it overhang?
:
: encouraged
: holds.
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 9 I think you can see part of the route in the top left corner of this picture
, above that board.
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: figure finger?
: is it overhang?
:
: encouraged
: holds.
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 10 烟筒改装的？ 真有特点。
不过通风怎么样？
which
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: not overhang at all...
: here is the gym
: http://stoneworksrockgym.com/photogallery.htm
: it's just finger holes in a real wall( the inside wall of those tubes which
: you can see in the pictures)....
|
|
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 11 the gym looks cool
picture
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: I think you can see part of the route in the top left corner of this picture
: , above that board.
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 12 hehe...it claimed the tallest gym in this world..
but it has really bad air-conditioning and heating...so, it's impossible to climb there in summer or winter, actually, they are bankrupting
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 烟筒改装的？ 真有特点。
: 不过通风怎么样？
:
: which
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 13 多高？
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: hehe...it claimed the tallest gym in this world..
: but it has really bad air-conditioning and heating...so, it's impossible to climb there in summer or winter, actually, they are bankrupting
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 14 I don't know...I just know the tallest route is about 130 feet.
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 多高？
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 15 好高啊
我去那个gym最高的线才45ft
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: I don't know...I just know the tallest route is about 130 feet.
|
p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 16 Congratulations on breaking into 5.12s! I'm still working on red point some
more 5.11+. 5.12s are still too injury-prone for me in general.
encouraged
holds.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: I ugly made a 5.12d in stonework last night, with more than 10 takes, but
: the takes were just for rest, not for falls. And late, my partner encouraged
: by my accomplishment and tried it as well, and he finished it too with
: somewhat of my aids .....
: This 5.12d (route 75) was all mono- or di- figure holds with few foot holds.
: Frankly speaking, each move was not so hard (pretty decent figure hold
: though), at least was not as hard as the one I tried in Exposure. The
: problem was height of the route an
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 17 130ft? you sure?
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: I don't know...I just know the tallest route is about 130 feet.
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 18 well...this is what they claimed...
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 130ft? you sure?
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 19 just checked the website, the longest one is 12x ft
really long
need 80m rope for that
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: well...this is what they claimed...
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 20 hehe...that one actually is an easy one(5.7), I just use it as endurance
training.
They have set up a competition on the route, current record was 1min and 3
sec, and I may need 3 min's to finish it. I can not image someone can climb
3 times faster than me....
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: just checked the website, the longest one is 12x ft
: really long
: need 80m rope for that
|
|
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 21 and static
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: just checked the website, the longest one is 12x ft
: really long
: need 80m rope for that
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 22 nop...they use dynamic...and it's fun if you fall..:)
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: and static
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 23 晕
好歹static也便宜点吧，竟然用dynamic的
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: nop...they use dynamic...and it's fun if you fall..:)
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 24 不过gym里的绳子一般都用dynamic的
怕有人搞错了，拿了static的绳子去lead
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 晕
: 好歹static也便宜点吧，竟然用dynamic的
|
c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 25 static is more expensive, actually
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 晕
: 好歹static也便宜点吧，竟然用dynamic的
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 26 如果不考虑deal
只看MSRP，还是dynamic贵一些
不过，差别不大
【在 c*******r 的大作中提到】
: static is more expensive, actually
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 27 i do 10 40ft 5.7-5.8 at different stations in 30min
even half of time are on tie-in/out, waiting & lowering
I guess I'll need >4min for a 120ft 5.7
but it's not surprising that someone can finish it 4 times faster than me
climb
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: hehe...that one actually is an easy one(5.7), I just use it as endurance
: training.
: They have set up a competition on the route, current record was 1min and 3
: sec, and I may need 3 min's to finish it. I can not image someone can climb
: 3 times faster than me....
:
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 28 like Dan Osman?
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: i do 10 40ft 5.7-5.8 at different stations in 30min
: even half of time are on tie-in/out, waiting & lowering
: I guess I'll need >4min for a 120ft 5.7
: but it's not surprising that someone can finish it 4 times faster than me
:
: climb
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 29 我常去的那个gym的绳子都是static的。都top rope在station上了，估计也不担心有人
会傻乎乎解下来lead用吧
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 不过gym里的绳子一般都用dynamic的
: 怕有人搞错了，拿了static的绳子去lead
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 30 他肯定不是四倍了，至少十倍？
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: like Dan Osman?
|
|
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 31 不同gym情况不同吧
如果lead和TR区没有彻底分开，有些混合，还是容易搞错
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 我常去的那个gym的绳子都是static的。都top rope在station上了，估计也不担心有人
: 会傻乎乎解下来lead用吧
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 32 这个不能解吧。只能拉下来。
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 我常去的那个gym的绳子都是static的。都top rope在station上了，估计也不担心有人
: 会傻乎乎解下来lead用吧
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 33 他记录400尺 4分多
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 他肯定不是四倍了，至少十倍？
|
e**o
发帖数: 5509 | 34 意思是有的gym 给lead的提供绳子？
我还以为lead都是自备绳子。
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 不同gym情况不同吧
: 如果lead和TR区没有彻底分开，有些混合，还是容易搞错
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 35 我去的gym就是
不许自己带绳子
【在 e**o 的大作中提到】
: 意思是有的gym 给lead的提供绳子？
: 我还以为lead都是自备绳子。
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 36 原来超人和人类的差别还不到一个量级呀
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 他记录400尺 4分多
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 37 百米世界纪录9秒多
我也就跑十几秒
没差太多
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 原来超人和人类的差别还不到一个量级呀
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 38 我去的刚刚相反，只能自己带，连lead test也要自己带
不过我们这另外一个gym就可以用gym的绳子
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 我去的gym就是
: 不许自己带绳子
|
w***y
发帖数: 1313 | 39 嗯，那我跟你也差不多快
也差不多重
哈哈
【在 T*********e 的大作中提到】
: 百米世界纪录9秒多
: 我也就跑十几秒
: 没差太多
|
p****n
发帖数: 109 | 40 John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, climbed 20 feet rope with arms
only, in 3.4 sec, faster than a normal person just pulling the rope by hands
.
climb
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: hehe...that one actually is an easy one(5.7), I just use it as endurance
: training.
: They have set up a competition on the route, current record was 1min and 3
: sec, and I may need 3 min's to finish it. I can not image someone can climb
: 3 times faster than me....
:
|
|
|
T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 41 对，都是一个数量级
【在 w***y 的大作中提到】
: 嗯，那我跟你也差不多快
: 也差不多重
: 哈哈
|
i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 42 yeah...I know those guys who is living in youtube....but...we are human
living in real life...
hands
【在 p****n 的大作中提到】
: John Gill, the father of modern bouldering, climbed 20 feet rope with arms
: only, in 3.4 sec, faster than a normal person just pulling the rope by hands
: .
:
: climb
|
p****n
发帖数: 109 | 43 Gill never lives in youtube. he is real human.
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: yeah...I know those guys who is living in youtube....but...we are human
: living in real life...
:
: hands
|
c*******k
发帖数: 2427 | 44 前面看的时候就觉得似曾相识.果然是我第一次爬墙玩去的那个地方.
可惜bankrupting
to climb there in summer or winter, actually, they are bankrupting
【在 i*****r 的大作中提到】
: hehe...it claimed the tallest gym in this world..
: but it has really bad air-conditioning and heating...so, it's impossible to climb there in summer or winter, actually, they are bankrupting
|
