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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 2 最近版上攀岩运动渐渐火起来了，估计接下来问题不少，正好提到biner了，我这里就
推荐一下．
先友情提醒一句，攀岩运动有风险，如果你想参加这项运动，本着对自己和partner安
全负责的原则，一定要认真学习有关安全的一切知识，实际操作中，切忌自以为是省略
操作步骤．切忌不按流程来．
关于indoor rock climbing的器材，请参考pink的另一个帖子:
http://mitbbs.com/article/Outdoors/31219433_3.html
这里重点说一下众多的biner里面，购买的时候如何选择，避免大家走弯路，或者问重
复性的问题．
biner 分成locking 和unlocking(也叫non-locking)两种，unlocking biner 的gate没
有锁紧机构，可以直接打开．locking biner的gate可以锁紧，防止biner自动打开．对
于rock climbing来说，如果你不lead,需要最多的就是locking biner了．
locking biner的锁有两种，一种是screw gate, 像螺丝一样，你需要用手旋转，才能
锁... 阅读全帖 |
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T*****e
发帖数: 128 | 3
4.如果你已经比较advance了，不满足于top rope,需要follow,可能你需要更多的
locking biner，除了3里提到的两个你必须买，至少还要２－４个locking biner, 经
过了不同的尝试，现在我只推荐这款 Black Diamond Quicksilver screwgate (现在出
了quicksilver2):
http://www.backcountry.com/store/BLD0612/Black-Diamond-Quicksil
注意：这个biner很轻，但是也比较＂单薄＂，所以如果anchor受力很大，比如说是
main anchor,一定要把两个double起来用．
～～～～～～～～～～～～～～～
以上的我不太赞同，biner看上去“单薄”与否我个人认为和安全性没有关系。基于以
下几个理由：
1，BD，petzl等大厂的biner，在设计上就已经严格考虑过安全性了，除非是厂家特殊
说明，或者有测试数据说明，不然强度肯定是够的。比如这款PETZL的lock binerhttp://www.rei.com/product/792817/p... 阅读全帖 |
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a***a
发帖数: 40617 | 4 西北二妹补充
对于带lock的，推荐这个
Black Diamond VaporLock Screwgate Carabiner
不带lock的，推荐这个
Petzl Owall Carabiner
嫌贵就买这个（还是普通的那种容易挂绳子的gate）
Black Diamond Oval Carabiner |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 7 I need to find something to bump the total to 50 for free shipping though,
hehe |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 8 I have more than enough biners to use, will pass this good deal |
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p*****o
发帖数: 1285 | 9 How is this one compared to the quicksilver 2? |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 10 much better
this biner has keylock feature, and larger clearance |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 11 I can never have enough biners, lol |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 12 it's a little bigger than quicksilver 2, more clerance, and most importantly
, it's a key lock which has no hook at the gate. that's a very important
feature for me. It is also a pear shape, which is perfect for Munter hitch (
as well as clove hitch). You can use it as your main locker for belaying and
rapping. I would not recommend using quicksilver 2 for that purpose. It
makes a perft biner for personal anchor because you can easily undo it with
one hand. I use quicksilver 2 for sport climbing |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 13 locking biner, I have more than enough
nonlocking, I still need some |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14 我的第一批locker们已经开始有衰败的迹象了，门关的不灵活了，磨损也很严重了，估
计用完这个season就该淘汰成rap ring backup或者chalk bag biner了。 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 16 你用那么重的chalk bag binner...俺都是用那种钥匙链的小的假binner.. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 17 sure it is good enough for indoor usage
does |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 18 我只有在gym里用chalk bag，无所谓的 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 20 I have purchased some 2nd stuff at mountaingear. I can't tell any difference
whatsoever from regular items. Tax kills the deals from mountaingear though
(they are in Washington, damn) |
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s***y
发帖数: 7034 | 21 pat，这个biner在mountaingear没有free shipping，上了$49也不行。。
difference
though |
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p*****o
发帖数: 1285 | 22
difference
though
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I should make a note of this so that I can buy from them
next time.
btw, Bing can never report my backcountry.com purchase automatically. |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 24 谢谢。现在小锁有5个mini，2个positron，一个vaporlock，一个sentinel，再添一个就
暂时够用了。最喜欢DMM sentinel，strength比vaporlock要好，做工好的就太多了，
只可惜查了一下，好像没说munter compatible.
Product Weight Strength (Gate-Closed) Strength (Gate-Open)
Strength (Minor-Axis) Gate Opening Rope Bearing Surface Width
Catalogue No
Sentinel Screwgate 54g 24kN 8kN 10kN 20mm 9.2mm A262
Vaporlock
Weight :
52 g, 1.8 oz
Closed Gate Strength :
21 kN, 4721 lbf
Open Gate Strength :
8 kN, 1798 lbf
Min |
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p*****o
发帖数: 1285 | 25 Is that something different from screwgate? |
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m**e
发帖数: 323 | 27 Just for you to estimate the gear cost, from www.rei.com:
1. Glacier Ice Axe 75cm $59
2. Classic Crampon $98.50
3. Screwgate Carabiner $7.5
4. no-lock carabiner $4.98
5. Ascender $48
6. Super 8 Belay Device $15.95
7. Dry Rope 10.5mm X 50m $99.99
8. Tubular Webbing $0.30
9. Harness $49
10.Mountain Boots $299.00
11.Ice Screw with Knob $38
12.Back Pack |
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