y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 1 贴个花絮多点没啥实质技术内容的。
Time: 6/11/09
Place: South Early Winter Spire
Leader: Tord Kurthy
周三晚上下了班就直接赶去P&R跟Sunny/James/JJ/Liz会合，然后就往目的地去了。今
天的climb在State Route 20的Washington Pass附近，SR 20又称North Cascades
Highway，North Cascade National Park很大一部分就在这条线上。从seattle开车过
去要3个多小时呢，早上6点要集合，与其半夜开车，不如提前过去在trailhead睡觉。
天气并不是太好，一直有点担心会不会取消。在停车场的时候Steve打电话过来，说
Washington Pass那里正在雷暴警告，告诉我们开车的时候要注意天气。当然，他还说
了，If leaders says GO, it is a GO. 如果真的决定取消的话，leader也必须开车
到trailhead告诉我们，因为那里早就没手机信号了。
我们从I5 Exit 206下来，先转SR 530，从Da |
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d******a
发帖数: 106 | 3 Thanks for the input.
Now I dont feel so bad.
I love these shoes, I just hope they love me as well.
Just curious, most of you climb with bare feet or a pair of thin socks? |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 4 我觉着climbing shoe是不是还是修合算
就算你同样钱可以买到抵挡的鞋了，你还需要break in，毕竟鞋的质量也不行 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 5 problem is that I don't want a new pair. It's too painful to break in. Mine
are so soft now that I wear them on alpine climbs. |
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e****e
发帖数: 1775 | 6 thanks!
我今天跑到那边去了（虽然不是因为看了众多大侠的指点）
要收47块
唉，钱方面也罢了，可是太拽了，必须得下周五才能取
可怜我周四就要出发climbing trip了，现在要碰运气
这修鞋匠如果心情大好，可能周四可以拿到，否则俺就再隔个星期再修
说回价格，这米国相关的消费跟欧洲比只高不低
就算欧元很挺，结果也还是不便宜，真是的…… |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 7 Both summit ridge and summit pinnacle were pretty much covered by snow and
ice. We put crampons on, used one ice axe and one ice tool, and started to
traverse to the summit pinnacle. Most of time, we simply roped up. On some
steep and icy sections, I placed pickets to protect running belay. I fell
once but stopped falling immediately using ice tool (The ice tool was really
helpful in this condition). Right below the summit pinnacle, we met another
group of five climbers, who climbed up from west |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 8 We have really used up everything we brought. When we were back at the trail
head, I've got only one energy bar in my pocket, food wise. And I was able
to make a phone call to LD 3 minutes before the due time, which is 12pm on
Monday.
Other than summitting, the greatest moment was when I got the phone call
from one of the lost climbers informing me they were safe. It was such a
relief. The scariest moment was not on the climb, but rather on the way home
, driving on I5 and witnessing a car crash |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 9 Congratulations on the great climb! You guys are so good.
I am very proud to tell others in my group that you are on the top of that
beautiful peak we saw on Hood.
trail
able
home
the |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 10 The most dangerous part of climbing is driving home, you don't even have a
belay...
I felt relief too when I heard those two climbers were safe, also when I
heard you drove home safely.
trail
able
home
the
and
to
some
fell
going
4 |
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M********a
发帖数: 190 | 11 Nice climb and report. Glad to see you guys are becoming more and more all
around bad a** climber. How difficult is it to do a crevasse rescue if one
of you fall in the crevasse?
really
another
we
screw |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 12 进来敬仰一下，教练越来越牛了，毕业后做全职Guide吧
climbing |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 13 时间：7月3日
地点：Mt Shuksan, 9131 ft / 2783 m
路线：Fisher Chimneys
Leads: ZD, F
第一次见到Shuksan是去年春天跟关老大去Baker滑雪，那里有一条叫Canyon的雪道，一
条长长的山谷，背后是大气的Mt Baker，前面是秀丽的Mt Shuksan，美极了。“待嫁的
新娘”，记得有人这么形容来着。
第二次是去年秋天带小朋友去Picture Lake，湖光山色，美不胜收。那时候zd老大已经
带人从Sulphide Glacier登顶一次了，看来将来也有上去的可能，专门仔细看了一下。
年初老大为了准备从North Face冰壁直上Shuksan，打算从Fisher Chimneys热热身，认
认路，那时就打定主意要抓住这个机会。几经波折，终于成行。
Fisher Chimneys算是basic climb里面相当难的一条线，很exposure的scramble，很长
的approach，很陡的雪坡，尤其有navigation超难著称，这次算是全碰到了，还有额外
赠品，在我来说算是挑战极限了。
因为知道同行的两人都很强，心里 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 14 nice. I have skied/hiked/climbed Baker many times, have never seen Shuksan
from close up. Always cloudy. |
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T********d
发帖数: 621 | 15 我想报名的club climbing, 也是这条线....就是还没报上 |
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S********t
发帖数: 18987 | 16 非常棒的TR,从头到尾读了,
很牛的一次CLIMB,
有没有合影奔一奔,让我们见识一下两位大牛
不方便PM也行 |
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h********r
发帖数: 3291 | 17 This is the route he was climbing
换了。看来他还舍不得用新绳子。。。。昨天我还在想应该把他的旧绳子要来，我可以
用来作TP或TP的anchor。哎 |
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p*****o
发帖数: 1285 | 18 脚长的不好，以前买hiking boots 就费了很大劲才找到合适的，没想到climbing
shoes 更难选。现在把gym shop里的鞋都试遍了，唯一合脚的是evolv defy。但我又是
汗脚，估计如果在gym里脱鞋方圆十米都没有人敢呆。问一下看有没有人有和我类似的
脚找到趁脚的鞋子的？我的脚
1. 平足，我几乎一点arch都没有
2. 宽，也不是特别宽的那种，介于E和2E之间
3. 脚面高，这个可能不是大问题，最多换根长点的鞋带
4. 大脚指比较短，Morton's toe
多谢了。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 21 【 以下文字转载自 Colorado 讨论区 】
发信人: goldensword (jj), 信区: Colorado
标 题: 探索Moab Arches------adventure climbing
发信站: BBS 未名空间站 (Tue Aug 4 18:46:55 2009, 美东)
科罗拉多高原处于犹他，科罗拉多，亚利桑纳和新墨西哥州的接壤处。在经历了地壳的
造山运动和科罗拉多河及其支流的冲蚀后形成了巧夺天工，壮丽慑人的独特地貌景致。
犹他的正东和科州毗邻处有一处被I-70, Green river, Colorado river 划出的三角地
带就是这种奇特地貌的典型。Moab 就包括在这其中。这里集中了两个国家公园和落基
山汇流下的河流，拥有绝对视觉冲击力的奇景，多部影片的摄景地都曾选在这里，想要
真正体会其魅力还是要深入其中的探索，而不是走马观花的下车到此一游。
因为机缘去了大部分的中西部国家公园，有些公园值得再去，包括Moab也去
过三次了，但一直没有对她的审美疲劳。于是又有了今年的计划，可惜传说中的高温吓
住了一些同伴，于是有了这一篇关于探 |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 22 让我在gym找找，最近开始看攀岩杂志上瘾，rock and ice上的照片真好看啊，
climbing也不错。
前两期rock and ice将chris sharma去中国攀岩，同伴在岩壁附近发现一个被虐待过的
尸体，很
恐怖，旅馆房间还被小贼洗劫一空，阳朔有那么乱么？ |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 23 这期的climbing看得其实挺痛心的，今年死太多人了
阳朔我2003年去的，好山好水清清静静的。现在早就天翻地覆的变化了吧。我今年年底
打算再去阳朔，如果能找到人跟我去的话。 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 25 both my current partner and my partner 7 years ago were able to lead 5.12s
after started climbing less than a year...They're both male though.
However, my current partner, although able to do some 5.13s at his peak time
, is barely better than I do now ^^ |
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d*********e
发帖数: 3835 | 26 a full set of gear going to top 3k easy ... that is why I don't climb :D |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 27 all my recent 4-5 climbing shoes are beyond $110...//run
my harness is $100 after 20% off...it's simply a lot more comfy on hanging
belay and a lot lighter than those cheaper ones.
deal |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 28 why not begin with sport climbing? |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 29 Maja Vidmar @ climbing World championship in Aviles/Spain
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2a2KgM-cLE
昨天在youtube上看到了Maja Vidmar的这段视频。graceful, efficient，看了好几遍
。小美女Maja Vidmar今年22岁，身高162cm，体重48kg，12岁开始攀岩。她这个身高体
重在中国女生里基本是个平均数。
看她一开始小角度overhang胳膊几乎在所有时候都是直的，重心贴岩壁很紧。后面屋檐
的heel hook/toe hook，拧身的运用，都很值得学习。全过程只有必须dyno的时候有一
个dyno，其它地方动作都很稳。 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 30 本来想贴Lyn Hill，才觉得Lyn这样的大师级别的人物不是三言两语能概括的。下面是
她的bio和一段video，自己看吧
http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?assetid=1880
上周在Lion's Head，一个5.11a的crux movement对我来说因为10cm的长度区别，就变
成了一个5.12 move。我很沮丧。同伴里有一个暴力肌肉男对我前一天在white's bluff
把他拼掉了很不服，还对我冷嘲热讽一番，搞得我想把他扔进苏必利尔湖。
回来想想，小个子有小个子的优势。比如石灰岩的指洞，男生放一个手指，我能放两三
个手指；手点和脚点距离很近的move我做起来更轻松。我身高跟Maja一样，而Lyn身高
只有5'2''，比绝大多数的人都要矮。
pdxbrewer去过Lyn的climbing camp? |
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s****y
发帖数: 2159 | 31 哈哈，你要climb like a girl, 估计就不会湿透了 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 32 Go to motherlode in RRG and see what is "大的overhang", or any of the
limestone caves that are dotted with 5.13s and 5.14s.
RRG is famous for overhang routes. You can climb a 5.9 big roof and get
really scared on routes such as "creature feature". Only one 5.9 move on the
entire roof but you're under a big roof and completely cannot see anything
above you |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 33 no, I wasn't there when he taped. I want to see how I climb myself too |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 34 climbing gear貌似打折不多，30%是不是算不错的deal了 |
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y*****y
发帖数: 3433 | 35 congratulations on climbing 5.12 |
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x****i
发帖数: 69 | 36 Looking for local sport climbing partners near Sedona, AZ area. I am
visiting there with my rope late November. Hopefully someone can show me
around the red rocks. |
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q*n
发帖数: 1203 | 37 where do you usually climb? Sedona is a really beautiful place, hope the AZ
folks here can jump out. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 38 这些climb的approach一个是5min，一个是10min。milage不高对不起这么近的approach |
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p****l
发帖数: 1098 | 39 Santa Cruz, CA. 好像climbing的人很多都冲浪,吸大麻，都是小年轻。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 40 You have fun at indian creek.
Next time come to smith rock, we can learn crack climbing from you :)
me. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 41 Actually, trout creek (1 hour away from smith rock) is a really nice place
to for crack climbing. Google it, you'll know
than
steep |
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f********y
发帖数: 883 | 42 Will do consider the rock climbing and the backcountry parts if I can make
it to the Northwest, but may not be able to join the inbound ski for money issue |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 43 It's easier to fly to Europe when you're still in the east coast. There're
way better skiing and climbing out in Europe. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 44 We will drive to central Oregon on Dec.24, stay at least 6 days there (TBD).
We are going to rent a vacation home, estimately $30/person/day. We will
cook breakfast and diner (not sure the cost yet)
For rock climbing, you pay nothing. For downhill skiing, you pay for your
own lift ticket (estimately $50/person/day).
You figure out your own airfare. |
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i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 45 exactly...
if I can find someone to go for a week ski/ice-climbing combined trip, it
would be a perfect xmas.
the problem is IF I can find..
OK, if anyone in east interested in this trip, please pm me. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 46 Nice trip and report.
6 days climbing without rest? You young ppl wre really energetic.
multi |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 47 Following for 6 days in a row is reasonable, depending how you do it. But
leading is a different story. Remember last year we bailed Prince of
Darkness, and I think half of the reason is that it was our sixth straight
climbing day, and both of us were burned out. |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 48 answer in line
要, 很重要, 如果不想花钱买防水透气性好的(gore-tex), 那就买雨衣,防水性一定要
保障
同上
羊毛袜, 这个hiking,滑雪都能用, 可以投资,至少要有2双
这个要, 不一定要买wool的, polypropylene的就可以, 价格便宜
no cotton!
这个和上面的区别就是厚度吧, 如果不想花钱太多,买一套中等厚度的就行, 否则买一
套薄的,一套厚一些的
羊毛的暖和,但是贵. 我个人觉得没必要羊毛的,除非你是很怕冷的那种
fleece glove就行,一副到两副, 这个平常戴, 不丧失灵活性, 可以戴着手套做几乎所
有事情, 但是,别用这个手套攀冰,立即就湿.
ski gloves吧, costco的就行, 需要两副, ice climbing手套湿得很快
这个是啥帽子? 保暖的还是遮阳的?
最好有, 如果你不想让脸被风吹日晒变成黑红色的话
不是必需的 ,取决于你的耐寒程度,通常我不用, 你自己琢磨
不是必需的
fleece jacket要一件
down/synthetic jacket要一件,如果不想投资太多,那就买synth |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 49 qun给我的书。尤其是对攀岩的女孩子，真应该推荐。估计我以后再也没脸抱怨自己个子
小爬不上去了。一个5'2''的女孩子，从14岁第一次在Joshua Tree攀爬的时候就显露天
分，后来完成了Nose的第一次free climb (5.14b, 31 pitches），而且多次在世界杯
攀岩赛里面夺冠。书里有她早年在Joshua Tree, Yosemity，Red Rocks，Gunks，以及
后来在法国，意大利的生活和攀爬，还有很多其它climber的故事。比如John Long老头
，以前一直觉得他是个教科书老头（没办法他写的书太经典了），读了他早年的故事原
来超级嬉皮士，而且喜欢口若悬河地讲些半真半想象的故事。在Vegas的时候曾经一度
找不到工作落魄靠Lynn救济。
里面关于美国60，70年代早期的代表人物，sports与trad的ethic的争论，甚至hanging
dog去red point一条线是否应该被接受在AAC曾经的一番激烈的辩论，也让我理解了些
我认识的老climber的态度。 |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 50 Just finished reading this book. Honestly, I am quit disappointed. Although
Lynn is a world-class climber, her writing skill and ability is quite lacking.
She writes a lots of things happened to her since childhood, but the
presentation is not very coherent. I wasn't expecting a masterpiece like
Into Thin Air, but Climbing Free is just not very engaging. I had no trouble
to put the book down to go about other errands in life, which almost never
happens to me when I read a really good book.
I was |
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