T******s
发帖数: 507 | 1 这么长， 一丁点读下去的欲望都没有
treated
and |
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a***a
发帖数: 40617 | 2 SAC NOW
cheap but
not recommended... |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 5 Can't read your last artilce.
同主题阅读：selfarrest，roping up and CR video （ZZ）
[版面： 户外活动] [首篇作者：anoia] , 2009年01月21日21:12:03
[分页： 1 ]
首页 分类讨论区 移民专栏 未名形象秀 未名黄页 新闻中心 精华区 未名博客
网络电台
◇在线[18065] ◇在线好友
无法连接到服务器!! |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 6 没多大差别，一样买几个
Straight vs. bent gates
The gate itself can be either straight or bent slightly. The bend in the
gate makes it eaier to clip a rope into one-handed. This makes it a popular
choice for the rope end of a quickdraw. However, they are slightly more
prone to opening accidentally. Straight gates have no appreciable bend in
the gate and are generally more versatile. |
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s***y
发帖数: 7034 | 8 1月29日 晴
三峰大本营－三峰（海拔5355米）－三峰大本营
就这样迷糊一阵清醒一阵，听着雪下下停停，听着另外一队由于当天必须返回日隆，３
点闹哄哄地起床，４点半出发了。总算约定的起床时间，５点到了。
先竖耳倾听，好像雪停了。钻出帐篷，立即感到有雪粒打在脸上，心里凉嗖嗖地抬头一
看，不由大喜。繁星满天！此刻再有风卷起的飞雪就只感觉清爽了。吃了点芝麻糊下面
包，分配了冰镐、安全帽、carabiner、8字环等物，防水裤和雪套也动用了，开了头灯
，互相看看，像模像样。两位男同学称头疼不去尝试登顶了，留在了大本营，我们剩下
8人这就正式出发了！
这一走就觉出了不一样。三姑娘山的树线和营地海拔差不多高，4300米出头，因此这第
一天基本算是在观察垂直植被变化，小小踩两脚雪。参看手头这张乞力马扎罗的垂直分
布图，发现乞力和三姑娘植被分布满像，13000到15000ft是high desert，零零松松贴
着地长着些植物。第二天这一出发就需要横切过一个山谷，山坡是30度左右，雪没到小
腿。天气太冷，鼻子拒绝苏醒，只能用嘴呼吸，难受死。准备好的打劫帽，发现戴上一
出气眼镜就花，于是也没戴。偶尔一阵 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 9 search "carabiner brake rappel" and "munter hitch rappel". I almost dropped
my ATC on a climb last Sunday. My hands were too numb after climbing a snow
covered pitch and got too clumsy.
highly recommend the book "Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solutions for
Serious Situations". you will be a good leader once you have mastered all
the scenarios described in the book. you need to master them in the field,
not on the paper. |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 10 昨天maywhite同学也说“滑轮”来着，呵呵
估计都是室内玩的多没户外玩过想象的，我可能以前也想象过用滑轮
其实就是carabiner，没有什么滑轮，摩擦太小不利belay |
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z*********n
发帖数: 94654 | 11 定滑轮原理上应该忽略他的摩擦力的
而攀岩belay的carabiner作用就是改变用力方向，摩擦力不仅不能忽略，
还是重要组成部分
要算滑轮，也得算一个非常差的滑轮 |
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s***y
发帖数: 7034 | 12 没看出 。。motif虽然有实力，但他是如此理性理智。。并且有这么多与其身份班配，
需要show off的装备。。
（咳，鉴于强换其好看carabiner，还是说些好听的吧。。） |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 13 not likely. what's the context?
belay |
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s***y
发帖数: 7034 | 14 就这一句话“2 pear shaped locking, 2 non-locking”
还是问guide吧。。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 15 what kind of climb are you talking about? |
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s***y
发帖数: 7034 | 16 接昨天下午的讨论啊。。还是Shasta，具体说这是前些日子guide发的Glacier I-III
gear list里的东西。。 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 17 which route? the easiest one doesn't require any rope travel.
for glacier travel in general, I recommend two big lockers (BD rocklock, e.g
.) and a few (3-4) solid gate ovals to begin with. |
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s***y
发帖数: 7034 | 18 Hotlum-Bolam Ridge
Thanks
.g |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 23 我的locker已经太多了，20多个了，似乎暂时不用了 |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 26 20多个locking binner，除非你把你LD的也算上，你一个人咋用得了 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 27 有8个是dedicated cragging用的，其余的我和LD平分一下其实也没多少。 |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 28 I thought I got enough, but actualy I ran out all my lockings in complex
rescue situation. need to buy another couple of rocklock biners |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 30 rescue的时候要用steel biner吗？ |
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R******e
发帖数: 2254 | 31 we are not S&R, most of time, we only do self-rescue, regular biners are
good enough |
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f********t
发帖数: 4574 | 35 哈哈，每次饼总贴biner deal的时候买几个，我现在也攒了一小堆biner了 |
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p****l
发帖数: 1098 | 36 问题是，我还没想好退啥。要不把rei买的carabiner退了？ |
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s****t
发帖数: 746 | 37 他那个是Wild Country Helium Wiregate Carabiner，
单买$12.5一个 |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 41 41 grams is a lot of weight for a non-locking biner. For reference, nano is
23 grams, neutrino is 36, Oz is 28, Helium is 33. I use Oz for the rope size
of all my draws and I found it big enough, even with super thick and stiff
ropes (>10.5, club ropes, not mine).
I don't care much about weight when I climb sport routes though. I use BD
quicksilver QDs when I climb at Vantage |
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i*****r
发帖数: 454 | 42 i see...I was just attracted by the price...and I need a lot binners ...
is
size
stiff |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 43 you only need about 30 biners on a regular rack. I'd definitely pay an extra
$50 to shave 400 grams. |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 44 I love my BDoz binners so far. Super light. The only complain is that they'
re not key lock and tend to get stuck in the bolt side. I would use some key
lock binners on the bolt side and use oz on the rope side.
extra |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 45 There are not many keylock wire biners out there. Helium is by far the best
I can find. It's a bit pricy though.
I don't share the same complaint since I don't climb as hard as you do. Only
places I absolutely prefer keylocks: personal anchor & racking biner for
wired nuts/hexes.
key |
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T*********e
发帖数: 39815 | 46 Isn't Helium the only keylock wire biner? I didn't see anything else on mark
et...
best
Only
they' |
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p**********t
发帖数: 2636 | 47 When you clean a severely overhang route on repel, you'll find bolt-side key
lock usefull. Since you'll have to release the bolt side under rope tension
, without keylock this can be quite a headache
best
Only |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 48 that's why I said I don't climb as hard as you do. I don't climb big
overhangs.
and you are talking about cleaning the route being lowered rathar than
rapelling, right? when you are on rap, you only put load on the rope above
you, which is already cleaned.
key
tension |
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c*******r
发帖数: 13580 | 49 I *might* have seen 1 or 2 out there, but I am not sure.
mark |
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